• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Need help to ID a tube...

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Hi guys. I came across this nice Perryman single mesh plate power output tube. It has a nice ceramic base. I made an assumption that this was a 45 (or 245, ect), and tried to test on my Hickok 539B. The 2.5V voltage was too low to heat the filament. So, I then assumed it was a 50 (or 250, 350, etc), which uses 7.5V setting. The filament heated right up. I tested for shorts, and got one on setting A, which is expected for a 50 tube. So, at this point I assumed I had figured it out. But, when I pressed the P4 button, The "fuse" light lit up. So, obviously this isn't a 50. Any ideas? I know it isn't a good idea to try to use trial and error on a tube tester, but I was pretty sure of myself... I guess I'm not the expert I thought I was!
 
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It looks like it could be a 210T.

The 45, 50 and 10 (210) all use the same settings on the 539B (ER32000). The only difference is the filament voltage and bias voltage. Both the 50 and 10 use 7.5 filament voltage. I'm guessing that since the fuse indicator lit up, that the ER32000 setting is not correct for this particular tube? Or, perhaps it is correct, and something is wrong with the tube that isn't being picked up when I rotate the short dial through the various positions?

Strange stuff....
 
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