ok so i just have two tiny double A batteries and a low power 50 watt 12 inch old subwoofer
i have a wire set just touching the middle of one lead from the positive side of the battery so that it keeps a constant on and off signal and the negative side of the battery goes directly to the other lead..and in between the positive side of the battery and the wire that goes to the (middle of the lead that goes to the speaker)
i have a transformer that converts the voltage to a higher voltage
how this works is when the power from the batteries hits the subwoofer.. the speaker moves up and since the lead is only touching the wire that goes to the battery but not staying connected to it. once the speaker goes back down to its resting place the speaker is hit again from the voltage of the batteries and the cycle is repeated
and in doing so it produces a sort of AC?
the switching speed is low enough to be around 50-60hz it's as close as i can get
also i tested the transformer and it does indeed produce very high voltage of over 90 volts at the output side!!
when i hook something up to the output of the transformer it makes sparks go flyin for a half second when i connect the output to some other high voltage device!
is there some way to simplify this into a smaller circuit with the same output or better output results?
there is no resistors diodes transistors or capacitors in this DC to AC circuit I made!
and it works pretty darn good and doesn't drain the batteries too much at all it's been running for about an hour hooked up to a high voltage lamp and it's been going strong for a long time and still going (although the noise from the subwoofer is annoying I managed to block out the sound somewhat
and somehow even though its so noisy my mom is able to sleep on the couch right next to me haha
so does anyone think that this could be useful somehow?
i have a wire set just touching the middle of one lead from the positive side of the battery so that it keeps a constant on and off signal and the negative side of the battery goes directly to the other lead..and in between the positive side of the battery and the wire that goes to the (middle of the lead that goes to the speaker)
i have a transformer that converts the voltage to a higher voltage
how this works is when the power from the batteries hits the subwoofer.. the speaker moves up and since the lead is only touching the wire that goes to the battery but not staying connected to it. once the speaker goes back down to its resting place the speaker is hit again from the voltage of the batteries and the cycle is repeated
and in doing so it produces a sort of AC?
the switching speed is low enough to be around 50-60hz it's as close as i can get
also i tested the transformer and it does indeed produce very high voltage of over 90 volts at the output side!!
when i hook something up to the output of the transformer it makes sparks go flyin for a half second when i connect the output to some other high voltage device!
is there some way to simplify this into a smaller circuit with the same output or better output results?
there is no resistors diodes transistors or capacitors in this DC to AC circuit I made!
and it works pretty darn good and doesn't drain the batteries too much at all it's been running for about an hour hooked up to a high voltage lamp and it's been going strong for a long time and still going (although the noise from the subwoofer is annoying I managed to block out the sound somewhat
and somehow even though its so noisy my mom is able to sleep on the couch right next to me haha
so does anyone think that this could be useful somehow?
LOL,
It sounds like a relay with its coil powered via the normaly closed contact..
Feeding a transformer...connect a capacitor across the coil to slug the relay.
The free added extra is a pile of noise created by the back EMF and magnetic interference...
great for testing your amp for pick up..<<<watch it melt down with instability..LOL
The sub woofer is probably better you can test your tubes for microphonics at the same time..Thump crackle, thump burrr, thump clang,
I think you will find its not a sort of AC its a sort of square wave chopped DC + a pile of Hash.. (ie you cannot transform DC ..yes you can if you chop it into a square wave or switch it on and off)
Regards
M. Gregg
It sounds like a relay with its coil powered via the normaly closed contact..
Feeding a transformer...connect a capacitor across the coil to slug the relay.
The free added extra is a pile of noise created by the back EMF and magnetic interference...
great for testing your amp for pick up..
<<<watch it melt down with instability..LOLThe sub woofer is probably better you can test your tubes for microphonics at the same time..Thump crackle, thump burrr, thump clang,
I think you will find its not a sort of AC its a sort of square wave chopped DC + a pile of Hash..
(ie you cannot transform DC ..yes you can if you chop it into a square wave or switch it on and off)Regards
M. Gregg
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Flintstones LOL
The mechanical action makes me think of a hydraulic ram for some reason. OP, it isn't really useful. The reason is that the same thing can be done far more efficiently without moving parts... well, the only moving parts are electrons in a conductor. But I think your tabletop experimenting is great.
The mechanical action makes me think of a hydraulic ram for some reason. OP, it isn't really useful. The reason is that the same thing can be done far more efficiently without moving parts... well, the only moving parts are electrons in a conductor. But I think your tabletop experimenting is great.
This is not a new idea.....this is exactly how car radios made in the 1940's and 1950's made 300 volts from a 6 volt car battery to power the vacuum tubes. The really old tube testers had sockets to test the "vibrator".
My first car had a pair of 6V6's operating from a 6 volt car battery. It was a 1949 Plymouth.
Vibrator Power Supplies
My first car had a pair of 6V6's operating from a 6 volt car battery. It was a 1949 Plymouth.
Vibrator Power Supplies
well it generates over 100 volts with just one double A battery because when i hook a light bulb up to it the bulb lights up easily!
and yes i think its a chopped square wave so im just using the subwoofer as a fast on and off switch
and i think i can convert the high voltage back down to high current and lower voltage somehow
but i dont want to blow something up with that LOL but it could be useful in powering something at the beach with some little puny batteries lol
very very good lifetime of these batteries actually! after an hour of running powering something they aren't even warm! they're still stone cold! it's really cool!
and yes i think its a chopped square wave so im just using the subwoofer as a fast on and off switch
and i think i can convert the high voltage back down to high current and lower voltage somehow
but i dont want to blow something up with that LOL but it could be useful in powering something at the beach with some little puny batteries lol
very very good lifetime of these batteries actually! after an hour of running powering something they aren't even warm! they're still stone cold! it's really cool!
I had a similar revelation about 50 years ago. I used a mechanical door bell buzzer (the electronic stuff hadn't been invented yet, and China was the "enemy") with a wire connected to the frame and another touching the vibrating element. I wired this to a battery and an OPT hooked up backwards. It would shock the %$*! out of you but contained very little energy due to the short time the current flowed (low duty cycle). There were no home computers then, so I showed my revelation to the local ham radio guy.
He showed me the vibrator thingy from a car radio and tried to explain that conservation of energy stuff, but my 10 year old brain wasn't ready to understand basic physics yet.
If you had a scope you would find that you have a high voltage pulse at the moment your connection is broken followed by an exponential decay in voltage to zero until the current flow is restarted. The power conversion efficiency of this design is very low.
The car radio vibrators are designed with a weight on a spring such that the time that the current is off is very short (dead time in SMPS speak). There are two sets of contacts and a center tapped primary such that the primary is driven in the same manner as a push pull audio amp. This is a mechanical version of a push pull SMPS. This is done to improve the efficiency of the conversion.
The physics stuff:
The total power (watts) taken from an apparatus (an electrical device, a car engine, anything) will always be less than the power it consumes. If you connected a 25 watt light bulb to your device (or any voltage converter) and it lit up at normal brightness the device would consume MORE than 25 watts from the battery. The amount of "MORE" is determined by the efficiency of said device.
A modern SMPS can have an efficiency of 90%, thus a modern SMPS would consume almost 28 watts to light a 25 watt bulb. The extra 3 watts is lost as heat in the circuitry. The old push pull vibrator supplies were about 60% efficient. This means that about 42 watts were needed to light a 25 watt bulb (or run the 10 watt amp in my old car radio, which in itself was inneficient).
Your single ended device is probably 5 to 10% efficient. A double A battery can produce an amp or more for a short time. One amp at 1.5 volts is 1.5 watts. You can get a hundred volts or more but the current will be 15 milliamps or less. This will light a flourescent bulb, but it will not light a regular incandescent bulb.
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