Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Tubes / Valves
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum

diyAudio Sponsor

Search for a tube at thetubestore.com                            Product reviews and more

Audio tubes for any amplifier: from high end home audio to classic guitar amps.

Quick links by tube type: 12AX7, EL34, 6L6, KT66, 6550, KT88, EL84, 12AU7, 12AT7, 6922, 6H30, 300B, 6V6, 6SN7 

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 24th October 2003, 12:24 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Send a message via Yahoo to redwine1118
Talking 6G4B SE Amp.

Hi there,

I am going to build one SE Class A amplifer with 6G4B and I would like to ask the comment from your goodself :

1) Do anyone have the schematic of 6G4B (in parallel) SE?
(My requirement , one stage amplification (6SN7, 6C45pi, WE417) RC couple to 6G4B)

2) In compare with 300B, 211, if I would like to bulid a power amp for a 15W class A output, will 6G4B got any tone difference with the above 2 tubes?

3) I understand that the output transformer is an important issue, will there be any recommendation?

My speakers : Roger LS3/5
Pre-amplifier : audionote M7

Red
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th October 2003, 04:56 AM   #2
SHiFTY is offline SHiFTY  New Zealand
diyAudio Member
 
SHiFTY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Zealand
Use any 2A3 parallel single ended (PSE) schematic. The 6B4G is exactly the same, but with a 6.3V 1 amp filament.

One thing you might want to do is use DC filaments- these babies hum a bit otherwise.

And luckily the Sovtek 6B4Gs are pretty darn good (if a bit dark looking- the filaments are totally enclosed) They can be run at much higher plate dissipation too.

Here are a couple of ones I dragged up on google- don't know if they are any good tho.

http://digilander.libero.it/paeng/a_2a3_PSE_AMP.htm
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/my/pse3.html

I have to ask though- given the cost of paralleled 6B4s, why not just build a 300B amp for the same 7-8W?
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th October 2003, 07:21 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Brett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Default Re: 6G4B SE Amp.

Quote:
Originally posted by redwine1118
1) Do anyone have the schematic of 6G4B (in parallel) SE?
(My requirement , one stage amplification (6SN7, 6C45pi, WE417) RC couple to 6G4B)
As Shifty points out, any paralle 2A3 amp will also work except for the heater. However 2 6B4G in // present a hefty load (>120pF) to the driver

Quote:
2) In compare with 300B, 211, if I would like to bulid a power amp for a 15W class A output, will 6G4B got any tone difference with the above 2 tubes?
You're not going to get 15W reliably out of 2 6B4G in //. The sonics will potentially be vastly cifferent between 6B4G, 300B (hugely overrated tube) and 211's depending on what you build and how well. You can do 15W from a single 211.

Quote:
3) I understand that the output transformer is an important issue, will there be any recommendation?
OPT is very important. For which tube? You have lots of choices and a recommendation would depend on your budget.
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th October 2003, 06:58 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Scarborough
I agree with Mr Grunty.

In general you have a good idea. The 6b4g is still available at sensible prices NOS. OTOH the mesh plate 2a3's sound very nice, if I were building an amp of that type those are what I would now go for money no object. If money were an object I'd use the Sovtek 2a3 in preference to the 6b4g because of the 2.5 volt filament, which is more easily AC heated.

Parallel Sovtek 2a3 output stage with just 2.5v filaments also presents less heater hum problems than a 5v 300b.

Then there is the matter of sound difference between 2a3, 300b and 211.

IMHO 2a3 is preferable all round to 300b. 211 has a beautiful silky smooth and delicate mid range and HF presentation, but due to constraints in output transformer design and power supply requirements a well executed 211 design is far more involved than a parallel 2a3 design.

For the parallel 2a3 idea you need to be thinking of three stages, a low impedance driver preceded by a voltage amplification stage. Actually it's all available inthe 6em7. Your 2 stage ideas are a compromise in terms of amplifier sensitivity. Of course if you don't need much sensitivity then that's different.
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th October 2003, 08:35 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Send a message via Yahoo to redwine1118
Dear All,

Thank you for your opinion.

Another question, if I connect EL34, 6550 or KT88 in triode mode SE, it will help me to save a lot of budget.

In compare with a 2A3 cct., will it be better?

Rgds,
Red
Attached Images
File Type: gif el34_11a.gif (11.6 KB, 1268 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th October 2003, 01:49 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Brett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Quote:
Originally posted by redwine1118
Another question, if I connect EL34, 6550 or KT88 in triode mode SE, it will help me to save a lot of budget.

In compare with a 2A3 cct., will it be better?
Define better for you. I know what it means for me, but not what it means for you. It will likely be cheaper, but not by that much, might have a bit more power, and based on my previous experiences, likely have more distortion with the EL34/KT88. A 2A3 will need about 50% more drive voltage, so might need some different driver choices.

It all depends on how you do it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th October 2003, 05:35 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Scarborough
You can get 12 watts SE from a 6550/kt88. Indirect heating so no hum problems. I've not tried it though.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th November 2003, 09:04 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Happy Ears's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: A'dam suburbs
Default triode mode

Hi , keep in mind the totaly different sound between directly and indirectly heated tubes ..
Altough a well designed 6550/KT88 amp ( triode connected ) can offer great sound , in therms of transparancy / depht etc. a DHT is far better .
Anyhow , Svetlana offer great 2A3/6B4 single plates for ridiculous price . go for it !

Happy Ears
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th November 2003, 08:22 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Scarborough
I love my dht's too, but the 6em7 power section has qualities no dht has, yet without having what they do have. There are differences, not necessarily superiorities. Secondly the 6a5g sounds for all the world to me exactly like a 6b4g. I haven't heard an R120.

That said I listen to a great really big dht at the moment out of preference, and I've decided it's finally time to build that PX4 amp.! I've now got old enough that my PX4's will outlive me, so I feel OK about using them.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th November 2003, 09:31 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Earth
Recently i built a se el34 been driven by a 5842 and it was triode connected with fixed bias been used in driver and output tube can be viewed at my sight . When i switch over to the 2a3 the sound became more musical and had more body. The 2a3 switch was a profound switch but i had the tubes on loan so it was allright in terms of cost. The 2a3 was a sovtek.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:28 PM.

Page generated in 0.11560 seconds (79.38% PHP - 20.62% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio