Hello everyone!
First time posting, I just built a GSG 6b4g.
first try, the rectifier tube turned bright orange with purple haze....
tried 3 tubes, same results.
So I checked the volages for the 6ax5gt
Pins 2 and 7 4.3v
Pins 3 and 5 344v
Pin 8 is not connected to anything, though the voltage check up list wants it at 333v, I got wild swings and had to cut power as the tube was loudly complaining ( on the kitchen table not hooked to anyting)
What could be wrong?
Richard
First time posting, I just built a GSG 6b4g.
first try, the rectifier tube turned bright orange with purple haze....
tried 3 tubes, same results.
So I checked the volages for the 6ax5gt
Pins 2 and 7 4.3v
Pins 3 and 5 344v
Pin 8 is not connected to anything, though the voltage check up list wants it at 333v, I got wild swings and had to cut power as the tube was loudly complaining ( on the kitchen table not hooked to anyting)
What could be wrong?
Richard
Best to start tracing the wiring with a very open mind. I built a phono pre once that was red plating only one of the tubes. I traced that amp for a week and could not find the problem.....because.....I assumed I did everything right. A friend came over and took a minute to see that I had the B+ hooked up to one of the heaters on the tube.
Pin 8 (cathode) should normally be connected to the first PSU cap, +ve side. Have you grounded pin 8 instead, or got the cap the wrong way round? The orange anode and lowish heater voltage suggests an overload. If you left it like that it would be a race between the 6AX5 and the transformer to see which one blinks first and lets out the blue smoke.
Best to start tracing the wiring with a very open mind. I built a phono pre once that was red plating only one of the tubes. I traced that amp for a week and could not find the problem.....because.....I assumed I did everything right. A friend came over and took a minute to see that I had the B+ hooked up to one of the heaters on the tube.
I know what you mean: I recall an E88CC that survived with 300V on one of its grids... Today a screwdriver slipped and the red LED on a cascode CCS went out. I removed the board, replaced everything and it refused to behave - sinking too much current. Finally I gave up. ignored the calculations and removed a 150-ohm resistor and replaced it with a 220 ohm one. Perfect. Funny, the other board which is absolutely identical still has its 150-ohm resistor and works perfectly and to spec.
Sometimes you have to give up!
Paul
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