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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: the leafy west of Brisbane
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Hi from a toob noob.
Just idly wondering what sort of maximum usable power is available from documented DIY designs for single ended tube amps? I'm maybe interested in constructing one, and it may as well have some "grunt". *I'd also like to add the constraint that the transformer and tubes must be reasonably readily obtainable! What can you suggest? Thanks Doug
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A speaker-builder's parable: "That burned down, fell over, then sank into the swamp. But the fourth one stayed up. And that's what you're going to get, Lad, the strongest castle of all." |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Colorado
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George got >200 watts - The 833A SE Amp Prototype
I would suggest efficient speakers with a few watts... much easier, safer and cheaper. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: 100th Meridian
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Quote:
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I have yet to see any problem, however complicated, which, when you looked at it in the right way, did not become still more complicated. (Poul Anderson) |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: the leafy west of Brisbane
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Quote:
Let's all have cold shower and venture back to the land of something-that-may-not-blow-up-and-take-out-your-eye. Anything slightly less hair-raising out there? Doug
__________________
A speaker-builder's parable: "That burned down, fell over, then sank into the swamp. But the fourth one stayed up. And that's what you're going to get, Lad, the strongest castle of all." |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lindau
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Hi!
When this should be easy to build and not use kilovolt B+ supplies, you will be pretty much stuck in the single digit Watt range. Best regards Thomas
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http://vinylsavor.blogspot.com/ |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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A GU50 will do (low) double digits, too. There is a thread about that.
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: England
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Quote:
The 13E1 is a large regulator beam tetrode - Pa +pg2 = 100W. Its gm is 35. I built a p-p amplifier with these which was successful = 33w at 1% THD with only 275V HT. Now run 13E1 at 400V and 200mA and I would expect to see 20W. Paul
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Plug them in and light them up |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Roswell GA
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There is power for power sake and then there are some simple SE designs that sound good.
I have a Tubelab SimpleSE cranking out about 7W running just shy of 500V and using the big honkin Edcor CXSE @ 5K impedance. At 3K it would put out more power (maybe 10W)but have higher distortion. I have some James OPT's with multiple impedance options and I tried 3K and 5K, I much prefer the 5K. Input tube is a 12AT7 variant and power tubes are EH KT90s's a cousin to the KT88 and I am running each tube around 90mA (pretty hot). This little amp really cranks and I prefer it to a 300b SE amp I built although I never got to fully debug it when one of the 300b's broke. With good iron and "premium" coupling caps (I dare not say boutique) I am using Jantzen silver Z's which were like $20 each - you will build a very "high end" sounding amp. IMO decent $10-$30 film or PIO caps would be appropriate here. Many builds are highly documented here and for such a simple little amp it is a good first tube build and the boards are very high quality although a few people have done this amp P2P wiring. Last edited by cjkpkg; 27th May 2012 at 12:42 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cape Cod
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"it may as well have some "grunt""
In general, the concept behind the SE triode paradigm is to have a low wattage amplifier coupled to a highly efficient speaker. Let the speaker do the work! It is truly a change in perspective and one can accept the premise or not. Most DIYers will look at the speaker/amplifier as a unit that works in synergy. |
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