Hi all,
I have picked up a Kriesler radiogram model 11-104 designed in 1965 and manufactured around 1970 - It has an AM radio and a stereo Garrard turntable.
Everything works at the moment, but is it worth replacing any of the key components like transformers or valves with new ones of the same specifications?
I've removed the amp and tuner, and am planning on installing it in a new box as a simple standalone unit with RCA connections for a turntable and binding posts for the speakers.
Thanks
I have picked up a Kriesler radiogram model 11-104 designed in 1965 and manufactured around 1970 - It has an AM radio and a stereo Garrard turntable.
Everything works at the moment, but is it worth replacing any of the key components like transformers or valves with new ones of the same specifications?
I've removed the amp and tuner, and am planning on installing it in a new box as a simple standalone unit with RCA connections for a turntable and binding posts for the speakers.
Thanks
Attachments
Hi,
I would change the power supply caps for new, however if you change other components like coupling capacitors (C19,20,21,22) possibly what looks like (C16 cathode bypas on the lower half of the 12AX7 I would change this!) the sound of the system will change. This is the same for transformers. Some people prefer the old component sounds. It depends what you want and why you bought this unit. You could change all capacitors with ? here is the question..Polypropylene are probably the best but again the sound may change and get brighter.
Probably a good idea to check the output tubes are not red plating if they look OK then it is a personal choice. Same with tubes if they are working OK.
Regards components if you want something better..
After listening to Ansar caps for the price and sound I would go with them if you want to upgrade with something better than standard then obbligato or clarity cap are good. Physical size needs to be checked because audio grade can be larger than a standard component. Might be a good idea to fit some bleeder (discharge resistors if non are fitted). Make sure the supply is discharged before you touch anything..I don't know if you have worked on tube equipment (it can hold charge). Make sure all earths are Good!
Remember if you change any resistors the working voltage has to be high enough. If you change anything in the radio section you may move the tuning and setup..
I would also change the mains cable and plug and ensure correct fuse is fitted.
Hope this helps.
Regards
M. Gregg
I would change the power supply caps for new, however if you change other components like coupling capacitors (C19,20,21,22) possibly what looks like (C16 cathode bypas on the lower half of the 12AX7 I would change this!) the sound of the system will change. This is the same for transformers. Some people prefer the old component sounds. It depends what you want and why you bought this unit. You could change all capacitors with ? here is the question..Polypropylene are probably the best but again the sound may change and get brighter.
Probably a good idea to check the output tubes are not red plating if they look OK then it is a personal choice. Same with tubes if they are working OK.
Regards components if you want something better..
After listening to Ansar caps for the price and sound I would go with them if you want to upgrade with something better than standard then obbligato or clarity cap are good. Physical size needs to be checked because audio grade can be larger than a standard component. Might be a good idea to fit some bleeder (discharge resistors if non are fitted). Make sure the supply is discharged before you touch anything..I don't know if you have worked on tube equipment (it can hold charge). Make sure all earths are Good!
Remember if you change any resistors the working voltage has to be high enough. If you change anything in the radio section you may move the tuning and setup..
I would also change the mains cable and plug and ensure correct fuse is fitted.
Hope this helps.
Regards
M. Gregg
Last edited:
The only things I'd say to do sight unseen are:
1 - cleaning
2 - electrolytic caps
For the cleaning get a can of Caig Deoxit D5. Do the tube sockets, control pots and switches all internal and external connectors. Just a short spray and exercise. If the pots and rotary switches are funky repeat as needed. Get a can of tuner cleaner or tuner wash for the big variable cap - flush generously.
For the electrolytic caps automatically replace any that are bulging or show anything leaking out of them. Beyond that either measure ESR or replace any that aren't doing their job, or just replace them wholesale. Lift off nuke from orbit.
If there are paper in oil caps check that they are actually blocking DC - those are often pretty leaky by now. You'll hear it when controls remain noisy no matter how clean they are. .
1 - cleaning
2 - electrolytic caps
For the cleaning get a can of Caig Deoxit D5. Do the tube sockets, control pots and switches all internal and external connectors. Just a short spray and exercise. If the pots and rotary switches are funky repeat as needed. Get a can of tuner cleaner or tuner wash for the big variable cap - flush generously.
For the electrolytic caps automatically replace any that are bulging or show anything leaking out of them. Beyond that either measure ESR or replace any that aren't doing their job, or just replace them wholesale. Lift off nuke from orbit.
If there are paper in oil caps check that they are actually blocking DC - those are often pretty leaky by now. You'll hear it when controls remain noisy no matter how clean they are. .
I have the same little amp as my workshop amp.
Single ended 6M5, it's a lovely old thing.
Ronsonic is spot on.
Mine was full of Ducon wax caps, be sure to get rid of those.
Make double sure you replace the two caps across the power switch/volume knob.
If they short, they make a heck of a mess. Use appropriate mains rated caps here.
Also, keep in mind the OPT's only have a 15 ohm secondary tap.
Single ended 6M5, it's a lovely old thing.
Ronsonic is spot on.
Mine was full of Ducon wax caps, be sure to get rid of those.
Make double sure you replace the two caps across the power switch/volume knob.
If they short, they make a heck of a mess. Use appropriate mains rated caps here.
Also, keep in mind the OPT's only have a 15 ohm secondary tap.
Start by getting the 6AN7 and 6N8 tested, as those tubes (valves) are exclusive to the radio function.
Acquire a good contact cleaner spray (Caig DeOxit preferred), spray the function switch, and operate it several times.
The schematic shows a piezoelectric phono cartridge that can easily destroy irreplaceable LPs. Please post photos of the changer and cartridge.
Allison,
Eli PM'd me to draw attention to your post - knowing that I'm in the right coutry at least .
There are quite a number of folk around Oz who should be able to help. If we know where you are, i.e. which state and city or country we can probably refer you to the right person. Each state for example has a "Historical Radio Society" which we sometimes "affectionately" call the local Hysterical Radio Society. Most of these people do restoration jobs as hobby work - that is both good and bad, the work is likely to be cheaper than professional serviceman but the actual people harder to find.
I'm in Adelaide.
Reply here or PM me.
Cheers,
Ian
Eli PM'd me to draw attention to your post - knowing that I'm in the right coutry at least .
There are quite a number of folk around Oz who should be able to help. If we know where you are, i.e. which state and city or country we can probably refer you to the right person. Each state for example has a "Historical Radio Society" which we sometimes "affectionately" call the local Hysterical Radio Society. Most of these people do restoration jobs as hobby work - that is both good and bad, the work is likely to be cheaper than professional serviceman but the actual people harder to find.
I'm in Adelaide.
Reply here or PM me.
Cheers,
Ian
Hi Ian
Thanks for your help. I'm in Newcastle NSW. Where would the closest historical radio society be?
Cheers Allison
Allison,
For some reason I did'nt get notification of your reply.
The HRSA (Historical Radio Society of Australia) has a website.
Historical Radio Society of Australia - web site
I would work my way through the website to find a contact in your area, there is a contact for NSW North Coast, or use the "Contact us" email link.
Best of luck with it.
Cheers,
ian
For some reason I did'nt get notification of your reply.
The HRSA (Historical Radio Society of Australia) has a website.
Historical Radio Society of Australia - web site
I would work my way through the website to find a contact in your area, there is a contact for NSW North Coast, or use the "Contact us" email link.
Best of luck with it.
Cheers,
ian
Hi all,
Sorry for dragging up an old thread! I have a Kriesler 11-133 Stereo 6 which I picked up a few months ago in pretty good knick. However the other day, the right hand speaker stopped working when on the gramophone setting, but both speakers work when it's on the radio. The nearest recommended tube radio servicer is a few hours away from me, so was wondering if anyone on here would know where the fault may lie? I'm competent at fixing these things, but not good at trouble shooting!!!
Cheers
Sorry for dragging up an old thread! I have a Kriesler 11-133 Stereo 6 which I picked up a few months ago in pretty good knick. However the other day, the right hand speaker stopped working when on the gramophone setting, but both speakers work when it's on the radio. The nearest recommended tube radio servicer is a few hours away from me, so was wondering if anyone on here would know where the fault may lie? I'm competent at fixing these things, but not good at trouble shooting!!!
Cheers
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