If I would want to make a socket that can use both tubes, would it work if I added a wire like that?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Pins 6 and 8 on the 6P14P seem to extend straight up to the octagon that forms the base of the internal assembly. Mostly they are touching it, but on some specimens they end ~1mm before touching the octagon. Pin 1 seems soldered to that octagon (EDIT:to a rivet fixed in the octagon).
On 6P15P Pin 8 seems NC.
I guess it's not secure to make an universal socket, unless this octagon is made of non-conducting material on all 6P14P?
On 6P15P Pin 8 seems NC.
I guess it's not secure to make an universal socket, unless this octagon is made of non-conducting material on all 6P14P?
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tukham asked specifically about the 6P14P and 6P15P. He did not ask about EL84 compatibility.
If he can confirm that the 'unconnected' pins are not connected to anything else (use an ohm-meter to verify) there is no reason for him not to proceed as he wishes.
Granted there are issues with connecting this way and using EL84s, but that was not his intent from his first post.
Would one do this for an amp that is to be sold? Heck no, because we know someone would eventually try EL84s in it.
So long as it is for his personal use there is no reason to move outside the box when experimenting.
Just be sure to mark the unit in such a manner as to prevent years from now someone unbeknownst to should they be tempted to make the swap.
If he can confirm that the 'unconnected' pins are not connected to anything else (use an ohm-meter to verify) there is no reason for him not to proceed as he wishes.
Granted there are issues with connecting this way and using EL84s, but that was not his intent from his first post.
Would one do this for an amp that is to be sold? Heck no, because we know someone would eventually try EL84s in it.
So long as it is for his personal use there is no reason to move outside the box when experimenting.
Just be sure to mark the unit in such a manner as to prevent years from now someone unbeknownst to should they be tempted to make the swap.
I did connect pins 3 and 6, but I have been using only 6P15P in there.
It seems I have some other issues with driver stage biasing, will have to sort these out before I can go any further.
My main concern is safety, the tubes are of no big value, they are used and come from old russian tv sets.
It seems I have some other issues with driver stage biasing, will have to sort these out before I can go any further.
My main concern is safety, the tubes are of no big value, they are used and come from old russian tv sets.
In Estonia, you'll probably not find many real EL84s. I was looking in the 6P14P-EVs I have. There are 2 mica layers on top and on bottom. Pin 1, and 6 are connected to the lower mica on the bottom, but not the top. Just 0.5mm away is the anode. Pin 8 goes through both micas and is just 0.5mm away from the anode. My JJ EL84s have stalks on pins 1 and 6 that seem to hold up the mica, so they won't have a problem.
6P15Ps are cheaper here than 6P14Ps, maybe there are more 6P15Ps around Estonia? If so I would go ahead and leave the wire in, and mark it for 6P15P. We do have amps manufactured here that use 6P15Ps.
Here's a Svetlana tech bulletin
Technical Bulletin 29
One guy said he soldered a wire from 6 to 3 directly on the 6P15P.
6P15Ps are cheaper here than 6P14Ps, maybe there are more 6P15Ps around Estonia? If so I would go ahead and leave the wire in, and mark it for 6P15P. We do have amps manufactured here that use 6P15Ps.
Here's a Svetlana tech bulletin
Technical Bulletin 29
One guy said he soldered a wire from 6 to 3 directly on the 6P15P.
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