Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Tubes / Valves

Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 22nd February 2012, 07:45 AM   #1
HpW is offline HpW  Switzerland
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Switzerland (Bern)
Default Cary SLM100 question (older brand)

Cary SLM100 question:

I have two older SLM100 may be from the early 1990 (mono power amplifier, each with 4 KT88). The idle current is set here as "self bias" over a 150E 25Watt power resistor. Each tube has a 10E resistor before connected to the common 150E, then it is connected to a 0.5A fuse and then final connected to ground.

What me puzzles is the following:

a) I had to replace the trani who went hot and noisy, may the cause of the high idle current

b) the total bias current measured here is about 320mA !!!!! or for each tube it is about 80mA * 450V (Anode/Kathode) = 36W

c) the latest SLM100 circuits are showing a manual bias (only a single trim-pot for all 4 * KT88 tubes) and recommend to set them to 175mA


in other words, something is here completely wrong or more then different

any comments on this are welcome

HpW
__________________
www.hpw-works.com
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd February 2012, 04:22 PM   #2
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
I believe the new amps are fixed bias, whereas the old design is not. Given the use of cathode bias with a quad of KT88 the idle current is not unreasonable for a 100W amplifier. It is run hot in order to keep it from sliding too far into class B at the high end of the output power range.

It's a design choice, not one I would have made, but probably perfectly reasonable given the design goals of the original designer at the time.

You do need to choose good quality, well matched KT88 for use in this amp's output stage, and in fact for the later model as well since there are no provisions for balancing the output stage.

Are you sure the 150 ohm resistor is just rated at 25W as it might be a bit marginal if that is the case, I figure it is dissipating at least 17W... I'd measure it, make sure it has not drifted over time, and probably replace it with a resistor rated at 50W.

There should be no problem with 320mA idle current with a properly designed power transformer - is this a 120V/60Hz model you are running on an auto-transformer or a bonafide 230V unit? (Not all transformers designed for 60Hz operation work well on 50Hz.)
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Transformer brand question keaster Tubes / Valves 11 14th January 2012 01:56 PM
Older Brahma Question berserker Subwoofers 1 16th November 2011 07:10 PM
Speaker Driver Brand Question dgshtav Multi-Way 18 13th November 2008 06:21 AM
Question about older records Pyre Analogue Source 3 28th September 2007 10:43 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:23 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2