"Big warm punchy bass"
"Thick syrupy mids"
This is pure audiophoolery that means next to nothing, like Marketing Dept nonsense that attempts to describe distortion as though it were a good thing.
From what you're describing, you don't want an amp, you want an FX box. I doubt that the Tubelab Simple SE is going to do that, and I don't know anything about the Jolida at all.
Not my idea of the ideal tube amp, but perhaps a vintage amp restoration project might fit your tastes better.
It is near impossible to advise without knowing the size of your room, musical preferences, and some significant detail about the speakers you propose to use with the amplifier. We need to know about the basic speaker design, is it Multi-Way, Full Range, ESL, OB, etc - what is the impedance, and efficiency, and if a multi-way how many speakers it has and relative XO complexity.
Some choices will dictate higher power PP amps, others may be suitable for low to moderate power SE amps.
Some sense of budget would be helpful.
It is near impossible to advise without knowing the size of your room, musical preferences, and some significant detail about the speakers you propose to use with the amplifier. We need to know about the basic speaker design, is it Multi-Way, Full Range, ESL, OB, etc - what is the impedance, and efficiency, and if a multi-way how many speakers it has and relative XO complexity.
Some choices will dictate higher power PP amps, others may be suitable for low to moderate power SE amps.
Some sense of budget would be helpful.
Have to agree with Miles....
'Big warm punchy bass'....
Bass is either reproduced properly or not, and being Bass, a LOT will depend on the speakers used, and the amplifier's control over them....
If not, then it'll appear 'attenuated' in some way or other or distorted.
Same applies to the other audiophoolery statements like 'Soundstage' etc! It either sounds Good or not!
Load of old crap! How can a sound be syrupy??
From the statements, it looks as though a SE project would not suit you, but LOTS more info needed such as speaker choice, even music choice must be considered...
'Big warm punchy bass'....
Bass is either reproduced properly or not, and being Bass, a LOT will depend on the speakers used, and the amplifier's control over them....
If not, then it'll appear 'attenuated' in some way or other or distorted.
Same applies to the other audiophoolery statements like 'Soundstage' etc! It either sounds Good or not!
Load of old crap! How can a sound be syrupy??
From the statements, it looks as though a SE project would not suit you, but LOTS more info needed such as speaker choice, even music choice must be considered...
SE amps by their nature tend IMHO to lack bass control due to their damping-factor....
My advice--For what little its worth-- would be to audition a PP amp or two of say 10-20W per channel and go from there, maybe compare with the odd SE for comparison before committing yourself to any huge expense...
Trouble with valve-amps, a mediocre O/P Transformer will compromise Bass response and damping-factor.....
--For this reason, I'm a prob considered a heretic by many as I prefer OTL's....
My advice--For what little its worth-- would be to audition a PP amp or two of say 10-20W per channel and go from there, maybe compare with the odd SE for comparison before committing yourself to any huge expense...
Trouble with valve-amps, a mediocre O/P Transformer will compromise Bass response and damping-factor.....
--For this reason, I'm a prob considered a heretic by many as I prefer OTL's....
Scott,
Here is a thought for you...
Punch ....power = PP amp.
syrupy mids....smooth sound with good clarity.
Soundstage....good High frequency response ... not distorted..
My advice is a full range speaker and something like a Quad Classic II.
The type of sound you describe is classic old tube sound...or very expensive modern..
Have you listened to modern tube amps ?
I think you need to let us know your budget..and if you have experience building electronics with 400V DC..
Regards
M. Gregg
If you have no experience buy an amp or buy a kit<<<remember this can be very dangerous. Have you done any electronics before?
What electrical experience do you have?
You need tools like a Decent multi meter<<this is all cost added to the project....What will you do if it dosen't work after you build it?
Regards
M. Gregg
Sounds like PP with worn out output tubes 
Buy Dynaco ST 70 , at least you won't have any troubles selling it back for the same money (mine actually isn;t wooly at all on my speakers but it sounded that way on friends supposedly quite efficient 92db kef 104/2) or old ASL (Antique Sound Labs) had this tick signature , at least mine KT88 version is little warm sounding but very spacious. Trouble is the quality of these units was questionable and that's why they are fairly cheap for what they offer. Be advised that speaker/ amp interface is of paramount importance and will dictate the end result.
Buy Dynaco ST 70 , at least you won't have any troubles selling it back for the same money (mine actually isn;t wooly at all on my speakers but it sounded that way on friends supposedly quite efficient 92db kef 104/2) or old ASL (Antique Sound Labs) had this tick signature , at least mine KT88 version is little warm sounding but very spacious. Trouble is the quality of these units was questionable and that's why they are fairly cheap for what they offer. Be advised that speaker/ amp interface is of paramount importance and will dictate the end result.
If this is the case then read the safety section on this forum...
Remember that you must test before you touch anything fit bleeder resistors to the PSU caps..you may not get a second chance...
Now your on your way...to hopfully a great project..
Have a look at what you can afford to build and post your ideas..
You will get loads of help!
Look at the photo gallery also...
Regards
M. Gregg
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There is more to this than easy to build..
The noise rejection is better on PP so the PSU is "less critical" ie you can get away without a choke...
PP output Tx's can be smaller..
I'm not saying this is the way to go but do a search for baby huey..link:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/175567-first-time-baby-huey-amplifier-build.html
It will give you an idea of how a project can be done
I would price up a project for all parts before starting it!
Regards
M. Gregg
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hey, go over to shannon's website diytube.com :: Index - you'll find a couple of projects there from the ST35, ST70, etc
and bottlehead.com has plenty of kits for beginners.
and bottlehead.com has plenty of kits for beginners.
The SSE or any single ended amp can make decent bass IF the output transformer is big enough AND the speakers have a reasonable impedance curve in the bass region. Many speakers will have a rather high impedance near the resonance of the woofer making the speaker hard to drive from a tube amp. I have an SSE using the same transformers that when connected to my Silver Iris speakers make solid bass that can be heard inside the house across the street. These speakers are 15 inch coaxial drivers with a 96 db efficiency. The same amp connected to my Yamaha NS-10M Studio monitors is a bit weak in the bass department since the speakers are about 25 ohms at 70 Hz.
Another possibility is the Simple P-P. It is a push pull amp using EL84's that delivers about 15 WPC. It uses a small amount of negative feedback to improve the bass into typical speakers.
True the SPP is a more complicated build, but both are PC board construction so the level of build complexity is about equal, and so is the total amp cost.
Lot's of good options have been presented. Naturally, I'll grind my own axe.
Build an "El Cheapo" with triode/ultralinear (UL) mode switches. The reasonably efficient open baffle speakers will produce "bleeding ear" volumes for heavy metal, etc., in UL mode. Triode mode offers greater finesse, for jazz and classical.
The attached schematic (triode mode) shows 12AQ5s, but any 6V6 family tube will work, without parts value changes. Please notice that a line stage is unnecessary. Use good O/P "iron", like Dynaclone Z565s, and full bass extension is available. Simply change the bandwith limiting combo at the I/P from 56 nF./100 KOhms to 68 nF./127 KOhms (RN65).
Jim McShane is the man for tubes and parts. Well under $100 buys a full set of power magnetics (will list if interested) from Allied.
Build an "El Cheapo" with triode/ultralinear (UL) mode switches. The reasonably efficient open baffle speakers will produce "bleeding ear" volumes for heavy metal, etc., in UL mode. Triode mode offers greater finesse, for jazz and classical.
The attached schematic (triode mode) shows 12AQ5s, but any 6V6 family tube will work, without parts value changes. Please notice that a line stage is unnecessary. Use good O/P "iron", like Dynaclone Z565s, and full bass extension is available. Simply change the bandwith limiting combo at the I/P from 56 nF./100 KOhms to 68 nF./127 KOhms (RN65).
Jim McShane is the man for tubes and parts. Well under $100 buys a full set of power magnetics (will list if interested) from Allied.
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if you have no experience working on tube gear i would not recommend your first project be to build an amp. if you REALLY have a relentless need to work on a tube amp i'd suggest buying a magnavox stereo console amp and rebuilding it. they are very simple to work on and can be found SE or PP. there is substantial documentation on the yahoo groups called magnavox friends.
once your done with it you will have learned a bunch and wont have any trouble getting back what you paid.
once your done with it you will have learned a bunch and wont have any trouble getting back what you paid.
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