High voltage umbilical and connectors / 1 box for PSU 1 box for amplifier in kit88 - diyAudio
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Old 12th May 2003, 04:12 PM   #1
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Default 1 box for PSU 1 box for amplifier in kit88

Hello,

excuse me to disturb you with my stupid question, but I have build a Class A 40W KIT88 (world audio design schematic). I have used the old method and don't used any printed circuit board, just cables. I want to put main transformer (195V-0V-195V 600mA, 0V-27V 100mA, 3,15V-0V-3,15V 9A) and all psu (rectifiers, capacitors, resistors) out of the amplifier box/chassis. So I will have 2 box/chassis, one for amplifier, one for PSU.
For linking (510V/365V/290V/255V/-12V/6,3V) I think I will use Neutrick connectors XLR 3 (KT88 heaters), XLR 5 (6AU6/ECC82 heaters/ ground) and XLR5 (510/365/290/255/-12/ Volts).
Neutrick XLR3 is indicated for 16A, XLR5 for 7,5A.
Do you think it is realistic ? HT could be transmited by Neutrick XLR connectrors ?

Thank you for your help (and excuse my for my english, I'm french).

Best Regards.

Pascal.
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Old 12th May 2003, 04:36 PM   #2
EC8010 is offline EC8010  United Kingdom
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Default Just pray you never meet a professional audio engineer!

An XLR is probably capable of withstanding the stress of HT. Whether you will survive the stress of a professional audio engineer destroying their kit as a consequence is a different matter...

There are lots of multipole connectors that are made especially for your needs before you need to abuse standards. Farnell stock a range of multipole connectors called "Metalok Bantam" which are rated at 750VRMS and 13A, or the "Sealok" range which is rated at 1500VRMS. You can have up to 48 pins if necessary.
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Old 12th May 2003, 04:49 PM   #3
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Default Thanks

Thank you for this information.

Best Regards

Pascal.
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Old 12th May 2003, 06:20 PM   #4
dhaen is offline dhaen  Europe
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Pascal,

I recommend some connectors by EDAC or ELCO (they are compatible).
They look like the picture I have posted.
It is possible to populate only the contacts you require.
They are available in various sizes/
The EDAC website is:
http://www.edac.net/en/Online/online.cfm
I am currentl using one for my power supply - power amp interconnect. It is the 56 way type. This allows some vacant pins for extra insulation, as I am using some pins for 1250 volts and others for 3.25 amps! It also allows for an interlock, which switches off the power supply if the cable is disconnected.

I bought mine from Farnell / RS components (can't remember which one). I remember that the connectors are in the audio section rather than the connector section.

As with all power connectors, it is vital to use female as send, and male as receive.

Cheers,
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Old 13th May 2003, 04:16 AM   #5
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How about CliffCon from Cliff Components They are designed for high-voltage applications.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 13th May 2003, 08:55 AM   #6
dhaen is offline dhaen  Europe
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Default Multi vs single

Hi,

The problem with using several connectors is that you must consider the safety aspect if 1 or more is not connected.
That means they all need earths, and where do you join the earths together? What happens to the amp or power supply in the absence of a particular voltage? Is it feasible to design interlocks?
It's easy to find yourself in a situation where safety is compromised for performance.

Cheers,
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Old 13th May 2003, 09:10 AM   #7
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Default Canon milC26482

Hi,

I think i will use MILC26482 19 pins connector from RS Component. It is very easy to use, i just nead to solder cables on connectors and plug.
In size 16 it's 13A and 19pins is a size 14.
Voltage 1500V.

What do you think of ?

Thank to all.

Pascal.
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Old 13th May 2003, 09:21 AM   #8
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Have you considered a 'captive' interconnect? that way you can simply make an umbilical and run it between them. The upside is safety and lower cost, the downside is that if you need to move both the amp and the PSU at the same time, you need 2 people. I've used captives for yonks as the better HV connectors can be a tad expensive here.

An even better method depending on how you want it to look and arrange the boxes would be to stack the amp and PSU sections vertically. I've done this before too, though my last design had full sides that could be unscrewed for maintenance/mods and a vertical louvre section from and rear to stop my young nephew putting his fingers anywhere he shouldn't (amps were mounted on the floor)

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Old 13th May 2003, 09:26 AM   #9
dhaen is offline dhaen  Europe
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Pascal,

The Cannon connectors are perfect. I did consider them, but they were a bit expensive for me!
Male sure to start from the middle pins first Yes, I've used these at work...

Brett,

Good suggestion. It also limits the cable length. In my case, I ended up with a 1.5m cable necessitating local decoupling caps on every line.

Cheers,
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Old 13th May 2003, 09:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by dhaen
Pascal,

The Cannon connectors are perfect. I did consider them, but they were a bit expensive for me!
Male sure to start from the middle pins first Yes, I've used these at work...
LOL, me too for some robotics work. Also think about what you're running next to what in the connector and draw out a diagram before you start. It's very easy to make mistakes.

These big multi-poles can often be had from the distributor in your country at a better price than RS/Farnell (but still not cheap like an XLR)

Quote:
Brett,

Good suggestion. It also limits the cable length. In my case, I ended up with a 1.5m cable necessitating local decoupling caps on every line.

Cheers,
That's two of the reasons I thought about using it. In the last amp I built this way, I even had the final filter caps hanging on brackets from the top plate with the star earth for each stage connected there for each stage via very short wires. All the wiring on the top PSU level was above the bottom deck and the wiring ran directly where it needed to go, so no looms with AC heaters and DC B+ together. To do this you need the sides and front for safety though, but with the sides and front/rear off, it was a breeze to work on. It also takes up less floor real estate.

If you've ever seen a pic of the Trilogy Audio RC211, you'll know what mine look like.
The only pic I could find...
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