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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
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Could the secondary of the xfmr be carefully unwound til you reach your target voltage?
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#12 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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A small power resistor will work just fine and will make a CRC input filter circuit which is going to be required to knock the ripple down sufficiently for reasonable performance..
Anything between 220 - 270 ohms should work. Use a 5W resistor..
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"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Israel
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Midland, Michigan
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A few millivolts of zener noise in a 140 volt supply?
Why would this be a problem?
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Frank |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Vancouver
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Even if it was a good thing who would buy an amp that needs a lightbulb replaced regularly.
Last edited by cbdb; 20th October 2011 at 04:16 PM. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Vancouver
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And it wouldnt compress the signal, just decrease the supply voltage with increased current demand.
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#17 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: North of Boston
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Quote:
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I understand your point, but I'm not selling anything. I'm making one, and only one of these for use exclusively in my house. Like most things I've made, it will end up in the basement after a year or so of use, or when I move on to a push-pull design. |
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
If you are going to use a resister to drop voltage why not put that drop to good use? Add in an extra section of CRC filter. As long as you are forced to use the resistor adding just one more small 40uF cap will greatly reduce the 120Hz ripple on the B+ |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Midland, Michigan
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If you put an electrolytic capacitor after the lamp, there is a good chance that the lamp will blow before the capacitor charges.
Initially, you will have the full power supply voltage across the lamp.
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Frank |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Macedon NY
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You may NOT need to drop voltage at all - in fact you may net even get as much as 140V. Was 161V measured under load or open circuit? Expect it to drop considerably under load.
If it IS voltage at full load, one trick that should work is to reverse the isolation transformer primary and secondary. They're wound with a small "step up" in ratio to compensate for the voltage drop under load. Reverse it and you'll get a small step down plus the normal voltage drop. |
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