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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mesa, AZ
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While the top-shelf choices seem to be the Caddocks and the Vishay Precision bulk metal foils, I'm guessing most of us don't spend that much coin for resistors. So, what are your preferences for reasonably priced (i.e. preferably $2.00 or less each) resistors. I'm interested in opinions about general types (i.e. metal film, thin film, thick film, wirewound, etc.) as well as specific brands and series that you like.
FWIW, I have been out of the game for over a decade, so I am playing catch-up on the tube market and the components market. While I'm at it, what do you guys and gals like for caps? Specifically, non-electrolytics for coupling, bypass, and PS duties? Like I said, I have been out of it a while... TIA, Greg |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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Mills wirewound non-magnetic, non-inductive. Not specifically in your price limit for certain values, but close.
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" ... In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice, there is. ..." - Chuck Reid |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Brisbane
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Takman resistors have a good rep, both the metal and carbon films.
For Power supply caps I'm using Mundorf M-litic HV's and can highly recommend them (miles better than the Aerovox caps they replaced) Jensen is another good cap for the power supply. I avoid bypass caps, and with the above caps they are not needed. For coupling I'm using Mundorf silver & Oils, but would like to replace them with either Ampohm Copper Foil in Oil's or if I can stretch it, Duelund Alexander caps. But ATM I'm going to try some Chinese mil' surplus film & Oils I noticed on the bay... For a lower budget the Hovland Musicap's are good from what I have heard.
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Speakers; Lenehan ML-1 - Amp; 25wpc El34 Custom - Phono; Boozhounds jfet - Turntable; Sansui SR838. |
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#4 |
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Tinkerer
diyAudio Member
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$2.00 or less each ?
You call this reasonably priced? Based on? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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In my case, everything is either reasonable or unreasonable based on the price of beer. Not sure about the OP's scale.
__________________
" ... In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice, there is. ..." - Chuck Reid |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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In the guitar amps I build, mostly out of recycled materials, el cheapo metal film sounds much cleaner - and measures much more reassuringly - than the vintage wound types i usually have to work with. or maybe i'm just dreaming, and there is no difference. in any case, i never recycle vintage resistors these days, except for the more expensive power types.
on the other hand, i hoard any kind of high-voltage capacitor that isn't an electrolytic. i don't like the short lifespan of electrolytics. apparently they don't sound that great either, but i probably wouldn't notice. i like what i read over at aiken amps: silver solder is beneficial, because it keeps werewolves away from your amplifier. it also smells nicer. but i'm not sure i can hear any difference. Last edited by fyzygy; 16th October 2011 at 10:11 AM. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: somewhere near Zurich
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For current production, I find Takman carbon film resistors to be excellent. For power supplies I like Danotherm GRF wirewounds.
For PS caps I like motor runs. Current production from Genteq (metal film with Oil dialectric - NOT epoxy) is excellent value. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mesa, AZ
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Quote:
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: columbia sc
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For cheap caps, Parts Express film and foil, for mid price AudioCap Theta from PE, and for expensive, Solen Teflon film and foil. The Solens are IMHO the equal of the ultra expensive VCap but at one quarter the price. Voltage also will determine the cost-do you need 600v for tube circuits or will lesser voltage ratings do. BTW, the Solens are 1000v rated-good for SE amp coupling.
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Evil looms. Cowboy up. Kill it. Get Paid. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Grand Rapids
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For most of my builds, I use the 2W KOA-Speer Carbon power resistors. They look like (and probably are) the Kiwame equivalents. They sure seem to work. Other than that, I mostly stick with metal films, unless I'm doing something really trick for myself - then it's Caddock and Mills...
For caps - at the budget level, the Obligattos are really, really nice. I also dig older polycarbonate capacitors. The Russkie Teflons caps are still great sounding for the price as are some of the other models. Expensive? Well, I'm still not willing to throw down for a V-Cap, so I use MIT polysterenes or Teflons. For PS, I use whatever well-priced electrolytic is available. Honestly, I prefer recent production electrolytics _over_ Solen polyprop caps. I once built an entire preamp using tube regulation, Solen caps and chokes. In the end, I ended up ripping out the regulation... and then replacing the Solens with Nichicons! In the end, this is all just icing on the cake. What really matters is the circuit, layout and execution. 'Trick' parts won't take a garbage circuit and make it better. |
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