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| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have just purchased two Heathkit W7-M amplifiers (1X6AN8 & 2xEL34 PP) which someone has modified to use a 12au7. I was thinking about restoring them but it looks like it may take too much work, my next plan is to strip the chassis and rebuild them on a nice new chassis.
I have ordered Siemens NOS EL34s and Japanese hit-ray 6AN8s to use with this amp and will be placing an order for new caps and resistors and I will redesign the PSU with a choke this time and more filtering. One of the output transformers has a dent in the top (minor) and I was wondering if anyone knows if I can take this top "cap" off without damaging anything? Also what are some recommendations for the fate of these amplifiers? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taxland, New Jersey
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In my opinion restoring or rebuilding onto another chassis seems like almost the same amount of work. I guess it really depends on just how bad off the mechanics of the original is regarding rust and/or corrosion. And also how much you like the original look. That's a judgment only you can make.
Regarding the dented transformer, I looked at pictures on line and have seen that the trannies are horizontal double half shells. So yes, you can unbolt the covers and fix the dent without and ill effects. Hopefully the dent hasn't mashed the coil build underneath. It appears that the transformers have a bolt between the chassis and bottom shell, so totally removing the transformer to work on it may be necessary. It the OPT bolts have an insulated shoulder washer on one end, don't discard it. It's there for a reason which is to prevent the bolt from shorting the lamination stack. Adding a choke may reduce B+ somewhat and you may find that's it's of little benefit to performance, even though Heath did things on the cheap.
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"The supercomputer is technologically impossible. It would take all of the water that flows over Niagara Falls to cool the heat generated by the number of vacuum tubes required." ~ Professor of Electrical Engineering, New York University Last edited by HollowState; 7th September 2011 at 01:53 AM. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I am getting prices on the Hammond HWCHAS1710BK chassis X2 (Hammond Mfg. - Walnut Chassis with Aluminum Top Panel (HWCHAS Series)) and transformer covers etc. It looks like someone has removed the variable damping selector but the amplifiers are sitting in the workshop at the moment until I get some 230-110V transformers to power them up. Regarding the change to 12au7 (or is it 12aT7), are these better at driving the EL34s than the original 6AN8 configuration?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taxland, New Jersey
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EL34s are reasonably easy to drive so either tube is capable of doing the job. Of course this will depend on the circuit configuration chosen. The pentode section of the 6AN8 will provide more gain for the input stage and give the amplifier a little more input sensitivity. Some folks don't like pentodes for reasons of their own. Be it preceived sonics or topology mindset. But there's nothing wrong with pentodes. It's really a matter of designer's choice and preferences since there are literally dozens of ways to drive the output tubes.
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"The supercomputer is technologically impossible. It would take all of the water that flows over Niagara Falls to cool the heat generated by the number of vacuum tubes required." ~ Professor of Electrical Engineering, New York University |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thankyou for rhe responses, very helpful! Are there any other modifications I can make to the schematic to improve the sound as I rebuild this?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sorry those pics will not expand for some reason. Try here http://profile.imageshack.us/user/riot454ci/
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ball Ground, GA
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Converting the amplifier to a 12AU7 front end will certainly make for an all triode front end, but ultimate performance by specification will be no where near that of the original. Using an all triode front end will reduce OLG so low, that closed loop performance will suffer significantly. I would suggest that you build the original circuit so you know how it sounds when operating as designed. Then, you can experiment from there as you might wish.
Dave |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
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One option is to use a 7247 tube. That will keep it all triode and have very good gain in the first stage.
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