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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: California
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Thanks to Rod Coleman i now have the components for the 813 heaters.
Still trying to get the chassis sorted. It is the hardest part for me. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: California
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I'm down to the sanding clear coats on the wood bases so now I can continue on with the build.
For HV filtering, I was going to use some electrolytic caps I had laying around but I think I should at least use new parts for this build. Considering the rectifiers in use (6D22S) and CLC filtering, what should I do for PS caps? I would like to avoid the use of the big old paper/oil caps as I dont really have the room for them. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: California
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I'm thinking some panasonic TSUP bypassed by some PP caps would do the job.
What would be a better sounding choice? |
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#15 |
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работник
diyAudio Member
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Stacked TSUP are good sounding electrolytics. Many Nichicons are known-good too, and Mouser has the KX series at 450V.
For ~900V dc, if the electrolytics are straight after the rectifier, then 400V rated parts, stacked 3 high (and balanced with 150K/2W) will be just enough. To improve on that setup, I prefer LCLC, with Panasonic stacked MKP 1uF/1600V at the rectifier, 5H, Panasonic TSUP or Nichicon KX, 2H, then Proper audio MKPs, eg: AMPOHM/LCR http://uk.farnell.com/ampohm-wound-p...30v/dp/1636651 Some like MKP motor caps here, but they sound worse than electrolytics to me. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The 1st State
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Any updates ?
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: California
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I have been slowly getting the parts together for this project and doing some testing.
I finally sent the brass to a metal shop and had them polished and lacquered as I just could not keep the tarnish at bay. They came out looking so good that my wife likes them and will keep them dust free for us to enjoy. My goal for these is to have an amp that would look at home in a grand manor or castle. I have pretty much all the parts so now I can begin assembly.
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Looks great!!!
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The 1st State
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Agreed - looks awesome. Cannot wait to see it finished.
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: California
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I have made room for a toggle switch that would allow Triode/UL switching.
With 900 VDC on the contacts the switch could prove to be a safety hazard if it does not fail (which many would) at power up. For this kind of VDC and the isolation needed I feel I may need to go to a RF type relay and use the switch in the coil trigger circuit to maintain acceptably high breakover voltages at the switch itself. Any opinions here? |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| PSU for an 813 SE | Richard Ellis | Tubes / Valves | 3 | 29th November 2006 06:54 AM |
| 813 or 845 for a SE amplifier | Original Burnedfingers | Tubes / Valves | 21 | 17th September 2005 03:20 PM |
| Progress of my 813 SE | Jax | Tubes / Valves | 38 | 22nd March 2004 09:38 AM |
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