Mounting terminal strips to blank copper board

[musical noise]

What would be the best way to mount terminal solder strips to a blank copper board? I am thinking that if a machine screw is used on copper it might eventually corrode because of the contact between dissimilar metals. Does that make any sense or am I being too cautious? What about epoxy or hot glue? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

[M Gregg]

Originally Posted by musical noise

What would be the best way to mount terminal solder strips to a blank copper board? I am thinking that if a machine screw is used on copper it might eventually corrode because of the contact between dissimilar metals. Does that make any sense or am I being too cautious? What about epoxy or hot glue? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

If you are talking tag strip...solder the long tags to the board and use as Gnd.

If you are talking tag board use stand offs made from aluminium or nylon + nut bolt.

If just a tag then you can solder it or use nut/bolt. you could use brass M/c screws. I am not a fan of steel screws for connections. You can get plated brass, however these are expensive. If you have to use steel some kind of anti rust coating is much better. This is just me, however I do not like to use any ferrous metals.. Non magnetic only.


If you are using single sided PCB as a Gnd plane if so you can engrave slots in the board "Track" between holes where components pass through to remove eddy currents. If you pass any cables through the board remember to put supply and return through the same hole or you will get eddy currents induced in the board.

Hot glue is Ok to "Damp" a Component. Hot glue fixing and hot tubes = sticky mess.(bits falling off after a few hours)

There are no rules you could use small diameter copper/plastic pipe cut to length for stand offs.


Just for fun.

Regards
M. Gregg

[Doz]

Stainless steel screw? I agree with the idea to solder the long tag on is best, if it's that sort of strip.

[M Gregg]

[QUOTE=Doz;2606538]Stainless steel screw?QUOTE]

+1.


I like stainless for Tx mounting, or brass. Also the project doesn’t look like its been in the garage "rust" after a year of condensation etc.

However these are expensive. So Brass is good.

Steel treated is OK..<<only use it if I have to. I used some cheap M/c screws once and guess what ..rust after about 12mths +high resistance connections. these were supposed to be galvanized.

Regards
M. Gregg

[musical noise]

Hi M. Gregg,

Thanks for your detailed response, I'll keep these things in mind from now on. I am building Millett's Starving Student hybrid, my first ptp wiring project and it uses a blank pcb as ground plane.

It's interesting that you mention that the tag strip could just be soldered on to the board. That would be fine by me if you think it will hold over time and not come undone. I'm only thinking this because the board will be mounted upside down and a bit of weight from a few components (albeit small) will be hanging from that tag.

Thanks again for the good advise.

[tomchr]

Originally Posted by M Gregg

I like stainless for Tx mounting, or brass. Also the project doesn’t look like its been in the garage "rust" after a year of condensation etc.
Steel treated is OK..<<only use it if I have to. I used some cheap M/c screws once and guess what ..rust after about 12mths

Good lord... Have you considered opening a window every now and then? Ya' know... Let some of that humidity out.

~Tom

[M Gregg]

Originally Posted by tomchr

Good lord... Have you considered opening a window every now and then? Ya' know... Let some of that humidity out.

~Tom

LOL,

It's the sweat and toil....
Perhaps its the excitement of the music.
Then again perhaps the wife should turn the fan on.

Regards
M. Gregg

[M Gregg]

Originally Posted by musical noise

Hi M. Gregg,

Thanks for your detailed response, I'll keep these things in mind from now on. I am building Millett's Starving Student hybrid, my first ptp wiring project and it uses a blank pcb as ground plane.

It's interesting that you mention that the tag strip could just be soldered on to the board. That would be fine by me if you think it will hold over time and not come undone. I'm only thinking this because the board will be mounted upside down and a bit of weight from a few components (albeit small) will be hanging from that tag.

Thanks again for the good advise.

Easy way to do it is mark the board with a pencil tin the tag on the tag strip and put the iron in the middle of the tag on the board and feed the solder in until it makes a pool. Make sure you get it in the correct place before you remove the iron because the board acts as a heat sink. If you want to remove it your going to have to hold the iron in place and feed a small amount of solder between the iron and the tag. Be carefull not to burn the board!

Regards
M. Gregg

[boywonder]

1/8" copper pop-rivets.....McMaster-Carr sells 'em in a couple of different lengths.

[DavesNotHere]

copper rivets and solder the ground tag to the copper with a Buck Rogers special (150 W solder gun)