• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Look what I found!

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I was digging through a hoard of stuff in a warehouse and came across this amp.

Just to cool!

Found a little info with the help of others. It was a kit from the 50s and sold for $40

I gave $50

I cannot upload pics?? I try and when I say Upload the page goes blank and does nothing???

WO
 
Member
Joined 2006
Paid Member
Is the photo in a format that diyAudio will upload? Is it tooooooo big?

Check out the attachment key for format and size specifications.

Lemme seeee - I'll load up a picture of ZM's Papa.....
 

Attachments

  • Nelson Pass - Saint.jpg
    Nelson Pass - Saint.jpg
    49.6 KB · Views: 875
I was digging through a hoard of stuff in a warehouse and came across this amp.

Just to cool!

Found a little info with the help of others. It was a kit from the 50s and sold for $40

I gave $50

I cannot upload pics?? I try and when I say Upload the page goes blank and does nothing???

WO

If you've only just joined, you won't be able to post pictures until you're not under moderation... I think.
 
It's OLD. Notice the use of binaural wording and independence of the 2 channels. I'm guessing the rectifier is a 5Y3 and that it uses single ended (SE) 6V6 O/P tubes. Please provide a complete list of the tube complement.

FWIW, I'd salvage the "iron" and tubes for recycling into a new build. All of the electrolytic caps. are "shot". Carbon composition resistors drift in value and go noisy over time, which makes them poor salvage candidates. Wirewound resistors in good physical condition are candidates for salvage.

BTW, if in good condition, the "magic eye" indicator tubes are of value to radio restorers.
 
Well it is very rare for sure. Just finding info was tough, (someone else found it)

It works! Powers up and plays. But I know it needs work.

You have to see these new pictures.

WO
 

Attachments

  • face 001 (1204 x 903).jpg
    face 001 (1204 x 903).jpg
    238.4 KB · Views: 422
  • face 003 (1204 x 903).jpg
    face 003 (1204 x 903).jpg
    137.5 KB · Views: 383
  • face 002 (1204 x 903).jpg
    face 002 (1204 x 903).jpg
    134.2 KB · Views: 375
Member
Joined 2006
Paid Member
That front panel is just too cool!

I would salvage it "in-place"; i.e. build a new amp into the existing chassis using the existing iron and whatever else is in good condition. Treat it like an old console amp and rebuild it better, faster...

'N it would be really cool if you could do something with the "cats eyes" perhaps replace them with a lens (clear marble perhaps) and put some blue or green LED's that would vary their output with the music. :cool:

What was the trouble you found with posting your photo's?

Wow! That thing looks sooooooooooo cool in da dark room - muh-ha-ha-ha
 
I would also recommend a restoration - I don't know why so many want to instantly junk old equipment :-( without having more info than just a photo or two.

Typically such a late 1950-early 1960 amp can be made in to quite a respectable unit. If it is one of your first efforts in to valve amps then the restoration path has huge learning and experience potential - such as distributed star grounding, testing part values, upgrading electrical safety, adding basic protection devices, appreciating standard circuit designs - and you may be able to find out a bit more of the history of that time.

Later, you can add specialised performance improvement techniques as you become more aware of them - and have had enough time to audition your amp and appreciate whether any change is worth it for your golden ears and speakers. I suggest that your amp would have been close to 'top of the tree' at the time it was made.

Ciao, Tim
 
Yea, me too. Restore it as is. That front panel is too nice not to use. Besides the other things mentioned to be replaced over time (filter and coupling capacitors and off value resistors) you should definitely replace that old two wire line cord with a three wire grounding cord (and plug) with the green wire connected securely to the metal chassis.

And I think that unit is very rare. I've never seen one before and I've seen a lot. (I'm 68)
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.