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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Good afternoon
Im a newbie and in the process of ordering all parts for the tubelab simple se Can someone suggest what choke value i should order and aux CAP. Thanks Robert |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the north
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Doesn't it show on the schematic, here:
Simple SE schematic
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lineup |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cape Cod
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It looks like a choke rated for 100mA with a DCR of less than 150 ohms would be fine.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Just about any choke that can handle 150 mA or more will work. Aim for 5 to 10 Hy and a DC resistance between 100 and 250 ohms. I used a 1 Hy choke with 60 ohms of DC resistance in one of my amps because I didn't have space for a bigger choke. It still works better than a resistor.
The aux cap should be a motor run (NOT motor start) cap. Motor run caps are made for a very low ESR and work synergistically with the electrolytic to form a very good low cost solution. These are usually rated in AC volts and should be 370 VAC or higher. Any capacitance value from 40 uF to 100 uF will work. I usually shop for 80 or 100 uF motor runs on Ebay and have found them for $15 to $20.
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Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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I built several of these amps and they sound great.
Just bought the resistors and capacitors listed on Georges site from Digikey. But, after building a shigaclone, found out that a lot of people "worked" long and hard on trying botique capacitors in various places. Considering "expensive" electrolytic caps are about a buck (or less) not counting black gates which are difficult to source, I was wondering if anyone has tried various sorts of Panasonic FM's, Tantalums, Oscons etc in the Tubelab SSE? And if I wanted to try, is it important to stick with the "exact" value of capacitance? Thanks, Paul |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
C1 should not be over 47uF for the sake of 5AR4 life, 33 or 39uF might even be better with the quality of recent production 5AR4's. C2 can be just about anything that can handle the voltage and fit in the board. The total capacitance of C2 and the supplemental cap should be over 100 uF, 150+ uF is better. The cathode bypass cap values were selected based on measurements on several capacitors available at DigiKey when the amp was designed. I no longer have access to the capacitor measurement equipment that I used during the amp design. The values are larger than most people use, so you can go smaller. The coupling cap value was chosen to satisfy the low frequency limit of the big Hammond and Edcor OPT's. If using smaller OPT's or speakers with limited bass response you can use a smaller cap value. Values above 1uF or so could cause low frequency instability, but I have never seen it happen since this amp does not use GNFB.
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Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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I wiil include more pics shortly
Robert |
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