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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Berlin
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I think I'm going to try my hand at the RH84 SE for my first scratch built, point to point wired project:
RH 84 - Tube Audio ...... RH DESIGN I've read lots of great opinions on this one, particularly that it responds very well to a pentode in the driver position (I've seen the 6AU6 mentioned a couple of times). Can anyone enlighten a newbie on what would be required to swap out the driver for a pentode? I'm still debating the iron; I've sent emails to both O'Netics and Electraprint for quotes on a complete set of transformers and choke. I would like to try one of their offerings if its not too far out of budget. I can always fall back on a full setup from Edcor. With the exception of the possible pentode driver, I'll be following the original schematic pretty closely. I'm planning on using a 5V4 for the rectifier, but I am a little curious on the choke. In the 20+ different threads I've read by people that have built this amp, it seems that most use whatever choke happens to be sitting in the parts box. The schematic calls for a 20H choke, minimum of 50mA; that seems to be a little bit of challenge to find. How critical is that value? Thanks in advance for any thoughts; I always appreciate the assistance I get from this forum. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Belfast
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To see the effect of playing about with different values of chokes why dont you give Duncan psu simulator a try.
Download 50ma might do for a single channel - is this a single channel project? I used 10H @ 200ma which gives me the option of using this choke in a future project if the need arises Brgds Bill |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Macedon NY
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RadioDaze has a 8 Hy 125 mA choke for cheap... $10.95. Custom Choke As mentioned above, 50 mA is only enough for one channel.
The choke and the output capacitor determine the final supply ripple. Bigger output C costs less than a bigger choke... |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Berlin
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Quote:
So, I could go with a smaller choke (minimum 100 mA for a stereo setup) and a larger cap; correct? I know I used a motor run cap in my Tubelab Simple SE for good effect, but that was a situation of "replace this cap with this cap." I'll probably have to do some learnin' to figure out the best way to manipulate cap vs. choke in this setup. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Quote:
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Brisvegas
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Quote:
__________________
Au rutti wop-bop-a-loom-bop-a-boom-bam-boom - Richard Penniman |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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I just finished this as my first build a few days ago, and, holy smoke, it not only worked, but sounded great! Have fun. Now, if folks out there could suggest a perfect second project...
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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By the way, I could use some advice on the 10uF/350V capacitor connected to ground... how critical is this; can polypropylene be sacrificed for electrolytic?
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#9 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Belfast
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Quote:
In the schematic of the OP's original link the 10uF cap is labelled as being polarised. As my build was from junk parts I used electrolytic. It's function to me looks like an extra layer of filtering for the ECC81 anode and ( in my very humble opinion ) doesn't have to be too critical. Quote:
Gingertubes " Baby Huey " would get my vote......... EL84 Amp - Baby Huey . |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Am confident low ESR cap would make the sound a little more dynamic. Used a plain jane electro there and was good enough, but when bypassed with a PP cap / oil cap is when it begins to shine.
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