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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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I'm using this board with 6SN7's in all four locations. I stuffed the board using the "Typical Part Values" for this configuration specified in the manual and tested it with a 240Vac transformer borrowed from another project.
The transformer I'm trying now is a Hammond 185E230 with series secondaries measuring 260Vac. The B+ measurement test pad measures 350V. This seemed kind of high given the documentation frequently mentions B+ and 300V in the same sentence. I've finally realized that the B+ test point is before the R12 resistors after having just changed them to higher values to lower B+ but then seeing no result. The voltage across C5 is now 289V. The Typical Part Value table that I built to references a B+ voltage = 300V and Vac to Rectifiers = 240Vac. Anyone know where I'm trying to hit 300V, B+ test point or C5? I've also just emailed this question to Broskie but I've emailed him on a couple other occasions without a response. Don't know if I'm making it through his spam filter or what. Note: The attached image mentions "Typical Part Values" but this is not the table I was referring to. Will post that table next. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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Attached is the table showing the typical part values. I'm using the values in the left column.
Currently R12a/b is a 6.8k and 10k in parallel for a value of 4048. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
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B+ would normally refer to the voltage, measured under load, from the power supply before it hits the circuit..... so in your first pic, where it says "left" or "right" and with the tubes in place.
Fran
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Visit www.tirnahifi.org!! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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Thanks. I'll start inching back towards 2k for R12 until I hit 300V at C5.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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A circuit designed for 300V will probably work fine at 350V, provided that any capacitors can stand the extra voltage. Don't panic!
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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IME with the octal Aikido, the higher the voltage, the better for linearity, assuming your parts can stand the extra volts.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Leeds UK
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sorry if this isn't quite on topic , but I've just received a rev A All In One Octal board hoping to make a White CF variant to use with my Sennheiser HD 650's, there's a packof resistors for R22 saying refer to manual but nowhere in the manual does it mention R22 or configuring it as anything but a line amp. I'm beggining to suspect the sheets inside the cover are for a non rev A guide, ultrachrome does your guide mention R22 at all?
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Quote:
I've emailed Mr. Broskie, but no answer yet. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Leeds UK
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C23 looks like the C3 in the Stereo Octal board rev C guide and should be at least 470uf when configuring a a HeadPhone amp
although in that guide JB writes On the other hand, if only 300-ohm headphones are going to be driven, then the best choice might be to use a 6SN7/12SN7 and both cathode resistors, R8 and R11, leaving both resistors unbypassed. The output impedance will be higher, but the distortion will be lower. hmm maybe I'll just build it as a line amp and see how it drives the Senns |
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