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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Servicing a Audion Silver Knight stereo single ended amp, I find that BOTH the Western Electric 300B's have gone gassy. Run the amp up on the variac to about 160/170 input volts and it starts to run OK, until you wind the input signal up and off it trips and the control grid climbs up toward the anode. I'm just surprised to find that both valves are doing this in very similar fashion. Anyone else had this?
Regards Henry |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: South Wales
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Quote:
--In fact--its quite unlikely, but Possible Have you confirmed by changing them for a known good pair of 300B...? Worth checking the coupling-caps while you're in there--Best by substitution and try again. They dont have to be some daft gold plated, diamond-studded whale-oil audiofool cap, a good Polyprop or Russian K40Y-9 will do for testing out, and sound just as good... |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Denmark
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I have seen that in a pair of power tubes. Once. Pair of 6146B beam power pentodes run in parallel in a ham radio transmitter, had been *badly* abused and overheated by the user.
![]() Not sure though how you'd manage to do that in a pair of 300Bs in two different channels of a class A audio amp...? - Frank.
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Team Thermionic |
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#4 |
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работник
diyAudio Member
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Henry, Is the amp fixed bias? If so, does it respect the WE specification for a 50K grid leak resistor? Needs 470n+ couplers to maintain LF with 50K pulldowns.
If the resistors are OK, the coupling caps are a good suspect, I agree. Do the getters look OK? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Hi Guys, thanks for the replies, all very sensible.
Had already gone for the coupling caps first, replaced then with 1000v .47uF. They were .33uF 400v so were open to suspition. Unfortunately I don't happen to have any 300b's floating around so can't check by substitution. Knocked up an adaptor and tried them in my curve tracer but it only goes up to 270 volts and they performed fine. The amp has cathode auto bias, and with 120K grid resistors. I added 82K resistors across them to bring them down to the 47K region but made only a marginal difference. This amp is a 220 V 'export' model. Running on the variac at around 160 in, it puts out around 400 v HT., impyling a final HT of around 550v which seems a bit high. The cathode resistors are 1K, (one of them was blown to bits). Really could do with an original circuit diagram with voltages on it if anyone can track one down? Got to say the build quality is a bit crap. Any more ideas? Regards Henry |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Oh and to add the getters are still silver but look poorish.
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#7 |
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работник
diyAudio Member
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Does sound like the 300Bs are being roasted.
I use 1K cathode resistors with a 420V supply, and they draw about 70mA like this, whichever maker's 300B is used. That's a comfortable 25W on a 40W anode. If the on-load supply gets much over 500V, the current will approach the 100mA limit, and the 40W limit also encroached: 425V x 90mA is 38.25W ! I think the 300Bs will have a short life at that operating point. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Agreed!
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: West London
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It could be the couplers . I was presented with an Audionote amp to repair , both the Audionote/Jensen PIO caps were leaky . This can easily be determined by disconnecting the couplers and measuring the cathode voltage to ensure it's within spec and stable
316a |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Already done (as mentioned in previous post)
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