• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

tony builds a 7N7 preamp

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hi,

just like to share my new tube pre-amp, it is based on 7N7 tube, it 's a medium-mu dual triode, the Loctal equivalent of the 6SN7:

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preparation of the chassis required drilling and nibbling the chassis to punch out holes:

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hole saws and drill bits were used utilising a small bench drill i got before christmass, nibbling tool for rectangular cut-out proved to be very handy:

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these are traffos i built, i used the one with 6.3 volt heater winding only. the endbell were replaced with those supplied by edrel, thanks edrel...

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the circuit is a classic common cathode input, cathode follower output stages. the twist here is that led's were used to bias the cathode follower.
operating point was chosen at about 150 volts and 5mA for both stages. this is desireable so that the net ac current draw from the power supply is zero.
the power supply was designed to provide 300volts at 30mA, the transformer i designed for the amp barely heats up in use.... the power supply is a hybrid type, using a 7X6 full wave rectifier and a diode bridge.....apportionment of supply current is as follows; 10 mA for the 300v composite zener diode string as shunt regulators and 10 mA each for both L and R channels.

this is the schematic diagram:

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more pictures:
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so how was the sound? i would say that this preamp is quiet and makes good sound driving a Sure T-amp as it is supposed to do......🙂
 
You show two Cathode LEDs on drawing and three in pics...this lowers your current through 7N7 from 5ma, correct?

I have a similar pre I am experimenting with, except I have the back 6SN7 as a phase splitter for a balanced output. I have a bit of hum tho, haven't played with it much...maybe I will play with it a little more. I should start with a lower B+ (I am running 230V B+, 22K plate Resistor, and two red LEDs on cathode...)
 
You show two Cathode LEDs on drawing and three in pics...this lowers your current through 7N7 from 5ma, correct?

I have a similar pre I am experimenting with, except I have the back 6SN7 as a phase splitter for a balanced output. I have a bit of hum tho, haven't played with it much...maybe I will play with it a little more. I should start with a lower B+ (I am running 230V B+, 22K plate Resistor, and two red LEDs on cathode...)


yes, the final amp used 3 led's, smaller ones to get the current to 5ma....

this amp is very clean, no microphonics, no hum....i lifted the heaters to about 95volts, using voltage devider strings since dc coupling was used....
 
Nice preamp. Something about the industrial strength look of the locktals is appealing to me. 🙂 What is the purpose of the 390 ohm resistors? Grid stoppers? Does having the 1M grid leaks connected directly to the grid pin compromise their effectiveness?


yes, those 390 ohms are carbon comps that i have lying around....the 1meg grid leak are there just for insurance in case the pots lose contacts....

this amp is dead quiet, no hum, no hiss, i am very much satisfied with this preamp...
 
Nice work. I've been using a 7N7 preamp for several years now. It started out as a Bottlehead Foreplay, then morphed into the amp it is now. Active loads on the plates of the voltage amp half, LED bias, and active loads on the cathode follower half. SS, pseudo dual mono PSU. Sounds fabulous!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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