This is probably old news to a lot of you but I just found out that Hammond makes some chassis with wood bases.
You can get one with wood like walnut all the way around or just on two sides.
They are a bit expensive but for someone that does not have a wood shop or the tools to make one, this may be the answer.
Hammond Mfg. - Walnut Chassis with Aluminum Top Panel (HWCHAS Series)
The usual suspects carry some of them.
US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com
Angela Instruments Online Catalog - Chassis - Hammond Walnut
You can get one with wood like walnut all the way around or just on two sides.
They are a bit expensive but for someone that does not have a wood shop or the tools to make one, this may be the answer.
Hammond Mfg. - Walnut Chassis with Aluminum Top Panel (HWCHAS Series)
The usual suspects carry some of them.
US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com
Angela Instruments Online Catalog - Chassis - Hammond Walnut
These have been mentioned before. The person who ordered one wasn't too happy with what he got. See this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...s-hammond.html?highlight=hammond+wood+chassis
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...s-hammond.html?highlight=hammond+wood+chassis
I am using the 17" x 10" chassis with walnut side panels, punched per my specs, for the kit I am offering. I'm very happy with this particular chassis, however I agree they have had some problems with the full wood frame with drop-in top plate.
I don't know about current production, but Angela.com had these for sale a while back and they had a disclaimer of sorts that talked about the fit and finish of the full walnut chassis not being precise. The HWCHAS chassis are not listed for sale on the Angela site now.
I seem to recall you reported a 3 mm (1/8") gap between the top plate and the wood because the rebate was screwed up during the routing. When confronting Hammond with this, you were brushed off with a "oh, this is not a precision chassis".
I'd be fine with 0.5 mm gaps or maybe even 1 mm. But 3 mm?! Com' on!! That's not acceptable. I can do better than that with a hand saw and a chisel.
~Tom
I'd be fine with 0.5 mm gaps or maybe even 1 mm. But 3 mm?! Com' on!! That's not acceptable. I can do better than that with a hand saw and a chisel.
~Tom
Thanks for the heads up about the other thread.
So is Tubemack the only guy here that has tried one?
I find it hard to believe that a company such as Hammond would sell such inferior work.
I'll bet they sub out the wood work, so it's just a matter of quality control.
Maybe they worked out the kinks by now?
Also, some of you seem intimidated by finishing wood.
There is a product that is very simple to finish wood with and is almost fool proof.
It is called Tru Oil by Birchwood Casey.
It is a gunstock finish and is actually not really an oil.
The formula is a polymered varnish, it goes on like oil but it dries hard in a day or two after the last coat.
It dries to a hard finish that is very durable, as it has to be for gunstocks exposed to the elements of the field.
You simply rub it into the wood with your fingers.
Multiple thin coats is the way to do it. If you try thick coats it won't dry right and can stay gummy for a few days.
But if you do real thin coats you can get two to three coats a day.
6 to 12 coats is what most guys apply.
You can have a glossy look to it or a matte or satin look, your preference and that depends how you buff it out.
I use Tru Oil exclusively on my guitar necks and it is a fast smooth feeling finish that many prefer over lacquer.
You can usually find it anywhere gun supplies are sold and it is usually in the gun care section.
So is Tubemack the only guy here that has tried one?
I find it hard to believe that a company such as Hammond would sell such inferior work.
I'll bet they sub out the wood work, so it's just a matter of quality control.
Maybe they worked out the kinks by now?
Also, some of you seem intimidated by finishing wood.
There is a product that is very simple to finish wood with and is almost fool proof.
It is called Tru Oil by Birchwood Casey.
It is a gunstock finish and is actually not really an oil.
The formula is a polymered varnish, it goes on like oil but it dries hard in a day or two after the last coat.
It dries to a hard finish that is very durable, as it has to be for gunstocks exposed to the elements of the field.
You simply rub it into the wood with your fingers.
Multiple thin coats is the way to do it. If you try thick coats it won't dry right and can stay gummy for a few days.
But if you do real thin coats you can get two to three coats a day.
6 to 12 coats is what most guys apply.
You can have a glossy look to it or a matte or satin look, your preference and that depends how you buff it out.
I use Tru Oil exclusively on my guitar necks and it is a fast smooth feeling finish that many prefer over lacquer.
You can usually find it anywhere gun supplies are sold and it is usually in the gun care section.
I use Minwax Tung oil finish. Sounds like the same thing. Apply several thin coats with an old rag. Allow each to soak in before adding the next. I placed the chassis inside the tool shed for a day or two to dry. My shed reaches about 100 to 120F during the day. Sand lightly, repeat if needed.
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