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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Southern Tier NY
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Safety.
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Living Life Doing the Waltz in 4/4 meter. |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: "Space Coast" Florida, USA
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Quote:
Imagine plugging in a RCA plug and getting a nice shock because the audio ground is 150 volts higher/lower than the chassis ground potential. |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
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What, in case the power transformer's primary shorts out to the secondary?
se
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The Audio Guild |
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
se
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The Audio Guild |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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If you want your family to stay safe you have to design equipment on the basis that a mains live connection will break loose (or mains transformer insulation breaks down) and will then be long enough to touch something inside the amp which is connected to something outside the amp which you or one of your children is touching at the same time. This may seem unlikely, but it happens. Grounding all external metalwork means that fuses blow instead of people getting killed.
Grounding all external metalwork can introduce hum loops, so ground breakers will break the hum loop while maintaining safety. |
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#26 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
And if there's no way for the AC mains hot to come into contact with the power supply/signal ground or signal output, i.e. if no AC mains hot lead was long enough to reach any of those points, then tying the power supply/signal grounds to the chassis would provide no additional safety benefit. There is however at least one reason to tie the power supply/signal ground to the chassis other than safety, and that's so that the chassis can be more effective at RFI shielding. And if you tie it to the chassis through a pair of diodes, you're not going to get any advantage there as you'll never likely have 0.7 volts of RFI between the chassis and power supply/signal ground. So if there's no chance of the AC mains hot contacting power supply/signal ground or signal out, but you still have the chassis tied to the AC safety ground, then the better way of tying the power supply/signal ground to the chassis is via a series RC network (say 50 ohms and 0.01uF). That provides a high impedance at audio frequencies and helps reduce ground loop noise, but a low impedance at radio frequencies so the chassis can better serve as a shield. se
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The Audio Guild |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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This is getting pretty far OT and covered by a million other threads already, but...
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#28 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
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Quote:
Then you have to have the unit tested by an accredited agency.
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Kevin |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I place a 4.7 - 10 ohm 1/2W - 1W resistor in parallel with the diodes which has always proven sufficient as a ground loop breaker and doesn't leave the audio gnd floating. In some cases I add a small ceramic cap to assure the chassis and system ground are close to the same RF potential. Further in such instances I will also use small ceramic caps (typically 0.01uF) from the RCA ground buses to the chassis.
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"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan Last edited by kevinkr; 4th January 2011 at 04:22 PM. |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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DIY Class II safety is difficult to achieve. Therefore the alternatives for DIY are grounding or danger. The mods won't allow us to encourage danger, and most of us would not wish to. See other threads - this topic seems to come up regularly.
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