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Old 9th December 2010, 11:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wavebourn View Post
6С19П

It looks better above SOA, on higher than specified voltage, with higher load resistance than usual.

http://cqham.ru/tubes/soviet/pdf/6s19p.pdf
Pearl Tube Coolers do in fact work, especially the newer ones (without the fibre sleeve).
Though you could also experiment with thin section aluminum extrusion which you can buy be the foot, cut it to desired length then hand roll them to dia. over an appropriately sized dowel rod (od a dead tube of the specific type). Use eithe Viton or Silicone "O" rings to hold to the tube wall.

Just to be curious: what magical thing are you designing with these wonderful tubes??? Please tell us it is a Wavebourn OTL!!!!!
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Last edited by tympani1d; 9th December 2010 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 9th December 2010, 11:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tympani1d View Post
Just to be curious: what magical thing are you designing with these wonderful tubes??? Please tell us it is a Wavebourn OTL!!!!!
No, it will be a home theater.
5 triode PP channels above 300 Hz, with small transformers for outputs. And a pair of class A+C SS channels for below 300 Hz. LC crossovers using modem transformers.
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Old 10th December 2010, 12:21 AM   #13
Matt BH is offline Matt BH  United Kingdom
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I dont have any 6s19 to look at and I cant find any decent pictures of the base.

Is the anode pin nice and chunky, or is it connected to the anode with a thin strip?

If it is directly connected to the anode you could add extra cooling at the pin and also use a heat sink on the envelope to try and keep the glass cool.

Only trouble is any failure due to long term overheating is likely to occur at the glass to metal seals of the pins. Take a look at the QQV06-40/GU19 for an example of heavily constructed seals.

Matt.
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Old 10th December 2010, 01:36 AM   #14
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6S19P is a 9-pin triode for power supplies. If I remember right, it has 4 pins welded to anode.
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Old 10th December 2010, 02:01 AM   #15
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What, DIY chainmaille sleeve wasn't good enough?
Euro4:1 pattern conforms and hugs the glass just
due to its own hanging weight... Make the top row
of a few links less, and it won't slip down.

16ga is real easy, especially if you use aluminum.
I think I showed 17ga stainless, maybe too hard?
Uncertain if stainless is a good sink.

Yet another do-nothing tOOb hack.

Strange, was 18ga aluminum??? What did I do with
that spool? I can't remember...

The rings were scored and broken from the coil
using tungsten tile nippers, modified to close down
a little more than usual, but still not touching.

If this had springs pulling down the skirt like some
tube retainer clip might have, this maille would hug
the glass even more firmly. Behaves like finger cuff
puzzle.

Last edited by kenpeter; 10th December 2010 at 02:31 AM.
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Old 10th December 2010, 02:03 AM   #16
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Sounds like an incredible way to use the 6S19P. A home theatre system seems like an interesting way to use them. What is the max output you get from them? How do they sound?

My worry is that the tubes may not tolerate the increased dissipation even with the heat sinks. Tried that with mil-spec 6N8S and found them becoming noisy after around 100 hours even though I had a dedicated fan blowing on it with glass temp not exceeding 80 deg Celsius. Let us know the results of your experiments.
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Old 10th December 2010, 08:47 AM   #17
piano3 is offline piano3  United Kingdom
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I wonder how Tinitus's 6S19P amp is coming along(subject of an extensive thread a few months ago) The glass of this tube does get quite hot even below standard operating area.

Last edited by piano3; 10th December 2010 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 10th December 2010, 10:02 AM   #18
DF96 is offline DF96  England
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I have always been puzzled by valve heatsinks. Unless silicon grease is used, they will make only patchy contact with the glass so there will be cool spots and the rest hot - a recipe for problems? Glass is a poor conductor of heat, so even the contact points won't cool it very much. Most of the heat gained by the heatsink will be radiant heat, which was already outside the valve anyway!

The solution to valve cooling is either ceramic valves or air flow. Air does contact the whole glass fairly uniformly so it can take the heat away. Maybe Wavebourn should be looking for a very quiet fan?
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Old 10th December 2010, 11:01 AM   #19
piano3 is offline piano3  United Kingdom
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I would have to agree with DF96- I cannot see the electrode structure of a valve as anything other than a blackbody radiator with very little direct conduction. Is it possible, however, in this case, that because of the very high heater current,1-1.1A for a relatively small envelope that there is significant conduction to the glass via the heater pins? I must say that I liked MJ's solution of mounting 6528 double triode on a fan guard of a low noise fan with the fan blowing from underneath.
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Old 10th December 2010, 11:33 AM   #20
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Maybe the glass will be cooler ( better convection ) , but the temperature of the plate will rise because some of the radiated heat will be reflected back from the heatsink , wich is very close and not a perfect black body to absorbe all radiation ...

Last edited by Depanatoru; 10th December 2010 at 11:39 AM.
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