Thanks guy!
Whatever you suggest, be aware that I'm aiming for something around 800vdc B+.
The 0.25uf cap is firstly used in place as choke input and secondly, to cut down the final B+. I'm only guessing .. newbie!
Regarding those 816 mercury vapor rectifiers, I love the glow!
Lots of those hot shot builders out there uses 866A, so, why not jump in the bangwagon for a ride?
To be honest, I can't hear the different !
Have A Nice Day!
Zekk
Whatever you suggest, be aware that I'm aiming for something around 800vdc B+.
The 0.25uf cap is firstly used in place as choke input and secondly, to cut down the final B+. I'm only guessing .. newbie!
Regarding those 816 mercury vapor rectifiers, I love the glow!
Lots of those hot shot builders out there uses 866A, so, why not jump in the bangwagon for a ride?
To be honest, I can't hear the different !
Have A Nice Day!
Zekk
Hi!
If you want to use the mercury rectifiers, stick to choke input or small first cap as they are only specified for choke input filters.
I like these too. The blue glow is unbeatable. If you want to stay more conventional, use two TV damper diodes like 6AX4, 6DE4, 6AU4, 6CG3,etc. cheap and very robust (but no blue glow).
I second the recommendation to use 3 silicon diodes in series, those diodes will see very large peak inverse voltages.
You will need more LC stages to get the ripple down to acceptable levels.
Best regards
Thomas
If you want to use the mercury rectifiers, stick to choke input or small first cap as they are only specified for choke input filters.
I like these too. The blue glow is unbeatable. If you want to stay more conventional, use two TV damper diodes like 6AX4, 6DE4, 6AU4, 6CG3,etc. cheap and very robust (but no blue glow).
I second the recommendation to use 3 silicon diodes in series, those diodes will see very large peak inverse voltages.
You will need more LC stages to get the ripple down to acceptable levels.
Best regards
Thomas
Thanks *quikie22*.
Hi .... I'm indeed grateful for your desire to help-out!
Can I use IN5822 or .....?
Can I use a #83 mercury before C1 ?
Now, I can proceed with confident to build it on a breadboard.
Cheers!
Zekk
Hi .... I'm indeed grateful for your desire to help-out!
Can I use IN5822 or .....?
Can I use a #83 mercury before C1 ?
Now, I can proceed with confident to build it on a breadboard.
Cheers!
Zekk
do a google search for Duncan Amps PS designer 2. It runs on Windows and allows you to simulate most power supplies. You can design any power supply you want using tubes or solid state devices. 
In fact, it would be best to do the simulations yourself as you will have the exact spec of the devices you will be using. As is, I am guesstimating the specs of your devices hence follow the recommendations of the simulator at your own risk!!.
Anyway, as requested, a #83 PS.
In fact, it would be best to do the simulations yourself as you will have the exact spec of the devices you will be using. As is, I am guesstimating the specs of your devices hence follow the recommendations of the simulator at your own risk!!. Anyway, as requested, a #83 PS.
Attachments
1N5822 is a low voltage Schottky diode, I think with max PIV of 40V. Not really suitable application in this circuit. Unless you wish to serialise at least 25 of them for each limb of the bridge making it a total of 100 diodes for this circuit :-D
A viable option would be serialised pair or triplet of 1N4007 or 1N5408 if you wish to use solid state rectifiers. However do not that the final voltage will be much much higher due to lower losses in the bridge. If you wish, there are also fast recovery UF4007 that can be used.
Or 4 damper tubes which are cheap,quiet,robust,efficient and will ramp up the voltage very gradually. Remember,you will need several heater supplies if you use tubes. There is also a very tough Soviet rectifier-5C8S,of which you could use 3 for an exceeding mean looking supply-which is also cheap but it will not give you such a slow start.
Hi ... Ya, I've read so much about it but to my surprise, no audible noice from my SE TT21 into 101dB speakers.
You don't switched on just listening to noice alone... right?
When the music starts, the ripples and the wrinkles are smoothed out!
Mercury vapor is very addictive!
That greenish blue glow will wow you over to this danger zone!
Have fun!
Guys ... he have his own reasons and preferences. Just like those folks whose likes adding chilli sauce to their pizza!
Nevertheless, it's helpful to a newbie like myself. Teaching me the proper way to wire up a pair of 816 or where to add a ammeter? Ya, it's loaded with expensive and heavy componants but at least, I can use it for reference.
My two month's frantic search thru the internet for a proven two stages, choke loaded design, have come to no avail!
Last night, I stumbled upon a French diyaudio forum and discovered a promising schematic but without power supply.
A single EL802 with 438v on anode, and B+ 865v for an 813. Can subsitute for a GM70 right?
Finally, I've to look out for a suitable power supply.
Thank you one and all for caring to response ....appreciates it.
Wishing Everyone A Fabulous New Year Ahead, Zekk.
sound better ?
Yes but the voltage in the beginning isn't constant. Thats pretty dangarous for biasing i think.
Hi there,
a little OT, but where did you get that transformer? I need a 420-0-420 one at 180mA but it seems I need to have it custom-wound, as no one here offers these ratings off-the-shelf.
Greetings,
Andreas
If a toroid would be acceptable to you, Antek in New Jersey offers a 430+430 version along with two 6.3 windings. A bit far from Germany however.
Antek - AS-4T430
ray
Antek - AS-4T430
ray
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