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Old 11th December 2010, 04:23 PM   #21
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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Please note!

If you build this circuit it produces 300V-400V Dc and can be lethal! Put a 1Meg resistor across the output to drain the HT at power off! I also used a current inrush suppressor of 10 Ohm at 10A to give a slight voltage drop from the laptop PSU and improve the sound!(Soft start)

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M. Gregg
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Old 11th December 2010, 06:09 PM   #22
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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EM80's

Link to information. For those that like to experiment!
Values and pinout need changing for EM80.

The Site for Electronics, Microcontroller, Tubes, Forum, PCB, Circuits, Onlineshop



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Old 11th December 2010, 07:03 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Gregg View Post
OK.

I have "created in p. point and converted to jpeg" the input selector section schematic.
I must admit I don't know why anyone would use a rotary switch when you can position a single push button any where on the chassis and have the relay board next to the phono socket inputs. The 18K for the reset is not critical, however if the value is to high or low it will effect the current drain from the chip or not allow a "0" for the count. The 0.1uf from supply to reset ensures that the selector always starts at output "0". It is easy to modify for as many inputs as required!You could use output "0" as mute at start and move the inputs to output 1,2,3,4 etc.

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Thats nice! Thanks.
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Old 11th December 2010, 07:13 PM   #24
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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Your welcome,

Just for info there is no connection between pin 13&15 on the 4017 the line just crosses. If you do get any bounce you can increase the C1. It worked OK for me.

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Old 11th December 2010, 08:03 PM   #25
Matt BH is offline Matt BH  United Kingdom
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Nice project

I really like the multi-coloured prism for input identification

Thanks for the links on the little inverter supply. I wish I had seen them when I was building some nixie clocks. Its amazing how such a simple thing as an inverter can become perplexing. I was trying to reverse engineer a camera flash inverter to save space. It let the smoke out The design you linked to would have been perfect.

Cheers Matt.
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Old 11th December 2010, 10:06 PM   #26
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt.B.H. View Post
Nice project

I really like the multi-coloured prism for input identification

Thanks for the links on the little inverter supply. I wish I had seen them when I was building some nixie clocks. Its amazing how such a simple thing as an inverter can become perplexing. I was trying to reverse engineer a camera flash inverter to save space. It let the smoke out The design you linked to would have been perfect.

Cheers Matt.
Thank's Matt.
Did you ever get the clocks working

I will post other info as I put it to Jpeg.
Here is the filter that fits between the Inverter and the Maida regulator. Similar circuits have been used in other posts!

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M. Gregg
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File Type: jpg Filter Circuit.jpg (10.3 KB, 370 views)
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Old 11th December 2010, 11:34 PM   #27
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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Here is the control circuit block diagram.
Just for interest

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M. Gregg
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File Type: jpg Control circuit.jpg (40.6 KB, 364 views)
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Old 12th December 2010, 03:43 AM   #28
Matt BH is offline Matt BH  United Kingdom
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Yeh I got the prototype working. I went through two itterations of simple inverter, but was never really happy with it, I just lashed up the simple inverter you use and it works a treat will use it for something I have on the to do list.

The prototype of my clocks was given away to a very nice fellow who gave me a HP334 for nothing

The later versions and the prototype ended up using an IC based design. I actually built one up but found these(usual disclaimer):

6 digits Nixie Clock prototype f

For the price its hardly worth messing about making it. chuck a couple of diodes in the 5V regs ground and maybe a heatsink and you have a heater supply as well, or a 6V reg and a germanium diode if you are set on 6.3V. Its fairly easy to up the output current to.

Cheers Matt.

Last edited by Matt BH; 12th December 2010 at 03:46 AM.
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Old 12th December 2010, 09:21 AM   #29
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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The problem I had was the current I needed and the voltage. This was the only circuit that seemed to meet the requirements!

Nice to know it may help with some ideas you have!
I guess guitar pedals would work quite well. (I haven't tried as yet!)

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M. Gregg
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Old 26th March 2012, 07:17 AM   #30
Dagwood is offline Dagwood  New Zealand
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Hi M Gregg
I have only just had the time to get on with my pre-amp due to starting a new job

Ok, when I put the input selector together on the breadboard it worked fine, now I've put it together on a PCB it won't work I have looked at it some much that my brain is fried!!! Can you have a look at the link below and let me know if you can spot any howlers on my PCB???

http://http://s1155.photobucket.com/albums/p551/Dagwood72/


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Dagwood
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