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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greater Seattle Area
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Folks,
It's time to share... I've been working on this 300B design off and on for the past six months or so. Inspired by the TubelabSE and PowerDrive circuits I set out to design my own amplifier. I happened to meet a fellow tube enthusiast at work one day and he turned me on to the anode follower circuit, which I started to explore. I have tried many different things. High mu triodes, medium mu triodes followed by low-mu triodes, etc. In the end the anode follower based on a pair of 6J5 tubes won as it provides the needed gain and sounds the most neutral to me. Besides I have a good handful of the 6J5's. Might as well use them... A 6SN7 could be used as well. I have arrived at something I really like. I wanted to call it the Engineer's Amplifier, but Pete Millett had already taken that name (bastard! I do admit that the circuit is a tad over-engineered -- especially the power supply. But if I'm blowing $200 on a pair of tubes, I might as well go all in... The bias supply is rectified with a pair of 1N4007 diodes. The main B+ supply is rectified by a Sovtek 5AR4. The long warm-up of the 5AR4 ensures that the bias supply has settled long before the B+ is applied. Both the B+ and bias supply are regulated (LM317/337-based). The B+ is set to 380 V; the bias supply to -180 V. I wanted regulated DC supplies for the filaments to minimize hum and wasn't happy with the amount of power I was looking to burn in the linear filament regulators I had in mind. Hence, I chose to have the filament supplies regulated by a pair of switchmode converters. The switchmode regulators I use are 90~92 % efficient, hence, only waste about a watt... The amp uses a modified Antek 2T350 power transformer and Edcor CXSE25-8-5k OPTs. The only design choice remaining is whether to use a CCS on the source follower or not. To my ears, on my speakers, the CCS sounds slightly harsh but more revealing in the midrange. A resistor on the other hand makes the amp sound much more relaxed. There's still good detail in the mids and highs. As I can't make up my mind, I've left both options in the schematic. Once I get a PCB laid out, I intend to perform another listening test comparing the two options. I really like the sound of this amp. I love the details on human voices and on metallic instruments. There's a lot of detail there. It's an amp that makes me want to listen to album after album. I'm measuring about 1 % THD at 1 W into 8 ohm. The amp tops out at about 4.5 W (3 % THD). Schematics and some pictures below. The supply PCB was done with toner transfer. I intend to make the amp board the same way. Note that the voltage differentials in the power supply approach 1 kV. If you decide to build this circuit make sure you know what you are doing as this circuit could easily kill you. The reservoir caps store about 12 Joules... ~Tom Last edited by tomchr; 11th November 2010 at 07:08 AM. |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
Some builders have gone to great lengths to design a nearly perfect (but complicated) CCS, while the other extreme still insists that a resistor or choke is the only thing to use. There is a lot of middle ground between the two extremes and sometimes it just sounds better. Some tubes just sound best with an imperfect CCS. Maybe your follower will too.
__________________
Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Shropshire
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First please pardon my lack of technical brains.
In an amp I am running I have 6J5 with 5v bias. I am intregued with the LED bias. On your schematic one tube has one LED & the other has two. What bias does your set up give? |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greater Seattle Area
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Quote:
I'm a little puzzled by the quest for the Ultimate Current Source as well. We all choose to geek out in different ways, I guess. ~Tom |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greater Seattle Area
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Quote:
The voltage you'll get across an LED will depend on the color (red, yellow tend to be around 2 V; green 2.4 V; blue 4-ish V; IR 4~5 V) and will vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer as well. ~Tom |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greater Seattle Area
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It turns out the signal source matters too (I knew that)... Rather than my $50 Phillips DVD player, I switched in my Arcam CD-17. Much, much better... Now the resistor wins hands down. The CCS simply sounds way too harsh.
~Tom |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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If you are still into experimenting, Wavebourn's SVCS is well worth trying.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greater Seattle Area
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In case anybody is interested in PCBs for this amplifier, I have a couple left that I'm selling at cost on my website (see my signature).
__________________
"50 % of the game is mental and the other 50 % is being mental. I've got that part down, no problem." http://www.neurochrome.com/audio |
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