Those tubes contain a mixture of 12AX7 / 12AU7 / 6SN7 triode sections in various different numbers. There is nothing special about them. Any circuit that uses the above triodes can be made with the tubes you listed. What do you want to use them for? Please be more specific on what you want to know.
6U10 Compactron Amp
I'm working on a 40-50 watt amp for 6-8 ohm speakers with the 6u10 and 6jm6 compactron tubes. I will build and check stability prior to releasing the design.
The limiting item appears to be output transformers. I found a set of 25watt'rs but from their physical size, I feel they will be performance challenged. I will leave enough room for a set of Hammonds or Edcors on the final amp. The 6U10 is the first gain stage and longtail pair.
The power transformer was $25 and should make 300V DC @200ma , -56V for bais and 6.3V @ 6 Amps for the heaters. It has a couple sets of 6.3 volt windings as spares. It will use input current limiters and diode bridges for power.
Tubes were under $5 each. Output transformers were $25 each.
Short the PCB, resisters sockets and caps, under $110. I have the wood for the base and .080 Alum for the mounting plate.
This amp is no way designed to compete with 6SN7 inputs and 6H6N's for second stage driving KT88's....The objective was "A small simple amp" for under $250.
I'm working on a 40-50 watt amp for 6-8 ohm speakers with the 6u10 and 6jm6 compactron tubes. I will build and check stability prior to releasing the design.
The limiting item appears to be output transformers. I found a set of 25watt'rs but from their physical size, I feel they will be performance challenged. I will leave enough room for a set of Hammonds or Edcors on the final amp. The 6U10 is the first gain stage and longtail pair.
The power transformer was $25 and should make 300V DC @200ma , -56V for bais and 6.3V @ 6 Amps for the heaters. It has a couple sets of 6.3 volt windings as spares. It will use input current limiters and diode bridges for power.
Tubes were under $5 each. Output transformers were $25 each.
Short the PCB, resisters sockets and caps, under $110. I have the wood for the base and .080 Alum for the mounting plate.
This amp is no way designed to compete with 6SN7 inputs and 6H6N's for second stage driving KT88's....The objective was "A small simple amp" for under $250.
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Good morning,
I would be interested in the circuit built around the 6U10. I have my P-P's set, now looking to build a decent driver.
Thanks, Ray
Not meaning to be overly critical, but your OPTs look a wee tad small for more than 10W with reasonable lf response.
They are meant for guitar use where the -f3 is around 80-100Hz. They are only rated foe 25 W at that.
If you want anything approaching audiophile quality you will need much better opts.
I think this would be a better choice:
http://www.edcorusa.com/p/444/cxpp50-8-6_6k
On the other hand, I love the PT.
They are meant for guitar use where the -f3 is around 80-100Hz. They are only rated foe 25 W at that.
If you want anything approaching audiophile quality you will need much better opts.
I think this would be a better choice:
http://www.edcorusa.com/p/444/cxpp50-8-6_6k
On the other hand, I love the PT.
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I used the little iron 8k-8 25watt with the 18 watt tubes to make the timing for the original stocking stuffer (hammonds were late) and upgraded them to 35 watt Z11 iron as a stocking stuffer this yr. It nests on top of a headphone-amp that was also his stocking stuffer. We also swapped out the 6U10's with 6AC10's which won the tube rolling contest over the other all the other triple triodes.
Built another one with 6GV5 18watt tubes with the 6.6k hammond iron 40 watt when they arrived and started the third with the 33 watt output tubes and 60 watt hammond iron. The larger one with the 6LB6 tubes and I like 6.6k iron for a little more class A over power output. I do not use UL with this design and it sounds great!. I has a low end that allows you to feel the music breath.
I started to mount to the top plate after bread-boarding it and trying different power iron combinations. I decided to use a damper diode for slow B+ start from a diode power supply to prevent voltage overshoot in the B+ to the caps. Worked great and I will also use it on the KEG-EAR ST70 clone project. 6CG3 damper tube as a slow start switch.
I wanted to mount, nest the amp on a phono-preamp so I started the PCB's for the preamp and it will also be 16" by 13". Looking for a 12" wide board of south american cherry, walnut to make the chassis from. I have one cut from Oak but may use it on the KEG-EAR version. I wanted the grain to match between the 2 chassis when stacked.
The RIAA PCB is almost stuffed, just need to measure the caps for the RIAA poles and match the resistors and then start etching the other 4 PCB's.
All PCB's are done by toner transfer etch in the sink. It is time consuming, it took 2 days for me to get the RIAA PCB as far as I did in the pic below. I have substituted PIO .47u for the WIMA's and still need to measure and match the resistors of the poles.
Built another one with 6GV5 18watt tubes with the 6.6k hammond iron 40 watt when they arrived and started the third with the 33 watt output tubes and 60 watt hammond iron. The larger one with the 6LB6 tubes and I like 6.6k iron for a little more class A over power output. I do not use UL with this design and it sounds great!. I has a low end that allows you to feel the music breath.
I started to mount to the top plate after bread-boarding it and trying different power iron combinations. I decided to use a damper diode for slow B+ start from a diode power supply to prevent voltage overshoot in the B+ to the caps. Worked great and I will also use it on the KEG-EAR ST70 clone project. 6CG3 damper tube as a slow start switch.
I wanted to mount, nest the amp on a phono-preamp so I started the PCB's for the preamp and it will also be 16" by 13". Looking for a 12" wide board of south american cherry, walnut to make the chassis from. I have one cut from Oak but may use it on the KEG-EAR version. I wanted the grain to match between the 2 chassis when stacked.
The RIAA PCB is almost stuffed, just need to measure the caps for the RIAA poles and match the resistors and then start etching the other 4 PCB's.
All PCB's are done by toner transfer etch in the sink. It is time consuming, it took 2 days for me to get the RIAA PCB as far as I did in the pic below. I have substituted PIO .47u for the WIMA's and still need to measure and match the resistors of the poles.
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Schematic of Compactron Amp with 6U10 triple triode for driver tube. Other variants are available for rolling as well as output tubes. This amp was based on the 6JN6, 6GV5 18watt sweep tubes and the larger 6LB6 tubes can also be used. I've used different power transformers with 400VB+ voltages with the larger tubes, really more power available than what I need.
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Hi!
I used a 6U10 to build a phono preamp. One tube per channel. I wrote an article about the 6U10 a while ago:
VinylSavor: Tube of the Month: The 6U10
There are many interesting compactron tubes.
Thomas
I used a 6U10 to build a phono preamp. One tube per channel. I wrote an article about the 6U10 a while ago:
VinylSavor: Tube of the Month: The 6U10
There are many interesting compactron tubes.
Thomas
Thank you for posting the schematic tube 6u10
Can I have more data to make their projects for this kind of compact tube
I also used the triple triodes in a headphone hybrid amp... first gain stage and then SRPP stage to a class A Mosfet follower. Edcor wound a custom transformer
EM0854-100/115/120, 200VAC and two 13VAC windings. I used the 13vac to convert into 12.6Vdc for lower noise....
EM0854-100/115/120, 200VAC and two 13VAC windings. I used the 13vac to convert into 12.6Vdc for lower noise....
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Aw, I remember those compactron tubes from my old Scott FM tuner. They were cute.
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