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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Singapore
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After listening to some valuable advices, I have changed my design from a 3-stage C3g:GM70:GM70 to a simple 2-stage C3g:GM70.
![]() All filaments are DC. B+ for GM70 is set at 800V as I am using two RCA83 for rectification. The max plate voltage for 83 is only 400V. Plate dissipation = 120W HT = 800V 120W / 800V = 150mA Anode current = 150mA Bias voltage = 60V 60V / 150mA = 400ohm Bias resistance = 400ohm ![]() Is my biasing resistor value for GM70 correct? What wattage should I use? Will it be running very hot? Will this schematic run in pure class A1? Im not too sure how to calculate the IT ratio. If I want to load the C3g with around 10K, what will be the suggested ratio for the IT? - Louis
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new kid on the board! Last edited by louischia; 21st September 2010 at 07:54 AM. |
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#2 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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You should look up some elementary school physics book and focus on its electrics section. There you will find explained Ohm's law, Kirchoff's laws and the relation between voltage across a load & current through it and power dissipated on said load. Once you establish maximum dissipation, you should go for component that is rated higher than the projected maximum, including all the positive deviations (mains voltage variation). A factor of 2 is a good safety margin. Quote:
You really should look up tube basics first, then do a simple project where youll learn how things work and only then consider something like what you're attempting now. Failing that you're just going to spend alot of money for what could only avoid being a huge dissapointment by sheer coincidence. If you feel lucky play lottery instead, the relationship between investment and reward will be far more favorable to you.
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mod verb, transitive /mod/ to state that one is utterly clueless about the operation of device to be "modded" and into "fixing" things that are not broken; "My new amplifier sounds great so I want to mod it." Last edited by Arnulf; 21st September 2010 at 09:58 AM. |
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#3 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Singapore
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- Louis
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new kid on the board! |
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#4 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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As for wasted power for cathode biasing: why bother ? Set up a separate bias supply, it only takes a tiny current to bias the tube so it can be really cheap. Quote:
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mod verb, transitive /mod/ to state that one is utterly clueless about the operation of device to be "modded" and into "fixing" things that are not broken; "My new amplifier sounds great so I want to mod it." |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Your biasing scheme is wrong, the filament supply will keep the right side of the heater/cathode at a solid +20V, no matter what the current through the tube is.
The left side of the cathode/heater is a 0V, so you have actually a fixed bias of (averaged) +10V. Boom!!
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Never send a human to do a machine's job. --Agent Smith |
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Singapore
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![]() Increasing the 2uf capacitors might be able to further alter the output voltage for another 50~100V. Quote:
Thanks for the reminder.
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new kid on the board! Last edited by louischia; 21st September 2010 at 03:35 PM. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Singapore
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In fact, I think it looks weird too. The initial schematic was like this: ![]() But I read somewhere that since Im using DC for filament, hum pot don't make much difference. So I took it out and changed the schematic to this: ![]() Then I thought since Im going to share a common ground for the filament and B+, the other side will be grounded anyway. Thats why I linked it down to ground. So what is the correct way of connecting it? - Louis
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new kid on the board! |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Frankly I would use a (couple of) 5U4GTB or even 5R4 to power this off of a single 600V winding using a hybrid (Graetz) bridge with solid state diodes on the negative half of the bridge.
I would also use fixed bias which would allow you to tune operating point over some range and eliminate a costly cathode bypass capacitor which could impart its own unnecessary flavor to the audio path.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Louis, few things:
1: Your rectifiers have their filament setup incorrectly (same problem Kavermei pointed out), you can't have cathode at same potential as anode 2: Your capacitors (the 2 uF ones) are a bit small. Are you sure your rectifiers can only handle 2 uF ? This totals 1 uF per supply, almost negligible value. You will probably want at least 10 uF (or 20-47 uF for quieter PSU) there. 3: Regarding IT ratio: this is something I haven't dealt with before so I'm sure others wuill be able to provide far more helpful tips than I can. However common sense dictates that you obey all the rules that pertain to transformers in general: - wire must be thick enough to withstand DC current (quescent condition of driver stage) - core must be airgapped or sufficiently large to withstand DC current without entering saturation - inductance must be high enough not to cause LF rolloff - leakage inductance must be low enough not to cause substantial loss - parasite capacitance is usually low enough not to be worth the concern, but you can keep it in mind You can read alot about these with regards to the output transformers (OPTs). Everything that applies to OPTs applies to these as well. 4: Regarding winding ratio: if your output tube never exits class 1 (= Vg is alwats negative enough for no grid current to flow) you can use your transformer as voltage step-up ("amplification") element, either getting some extra gain or getting rid of some gain without NFB. 1:1 is most straightforward as you only need one thickness of wire and everything is more straioghtforward but since you're winding your own you can tweak it to your specific goals. 5: Regarding cathode bias - it's so obvious but I haven't looked at your schematic long enough to notice it like Kavermei did: cathode resistor causes voltage drop. This drop is used to bias the tube, employing the self-adjusting relationship between grid voltage and cathode current (at some point the equilibrium is reached and if tube is stable there without melting down that's your operating point). So you obviously have to connect your bias to the correct side when using cathode bias with directly heated tubes (you can't make this mistake with indirectly heated ones because only one wire goes from the cathode). I still think you should be using fixed bias though.
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mod verb, transitive /mod/ to state that one is utterly clueless about the operation of device to be "modded" and into "fixing" things that are not broken; "My new amplifier sounds great so I want to mod it." |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: United Kingdom
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Overall 800V at 150 mA for the GM70 is not a good choice for me because of very poor efficiency.....120W plate dissipation for few watts of Pout!! For example, one could go for 800V/100 mA using a fixed bias at approx. -70V for 15-18W output with a 4-5K primary load. With 800V anode voltage and that driver I don't think one can get much more. Cheers 45 |
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