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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hello all.
I just got a pioneer SX-348, to test out and see how it sounds compared to my other stuff (It's all tubes!). I couldn't find the service manual so I don't have any clear way to fix it except replace caps and hope that works. I need to order new caps for it probably though I haven't checked them yet. To my knowledge all the tubes are fine, but some caps have shorted and the output tubes glow cherry red, a good sign to turn it off. I was wondering, if I might be able to use the phono preamp and tuner amp section if I just remove the output tubes. IIRC tube gear is generally designed to withstand being turned on without the tubes being in place, so a dead tube won't destroy the whole thing? - keantoken
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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I just went through, most of the oil caps measured 500-700Kohms, a few measured higher, into the megaohms. None measured a short.
- keantoken
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Auckland, NZ
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...yeah, but thats applying an insignificant voltage to them. They may well measure drastically differently under a 300V supply...
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Okay, so a better way would be to go back to the tube shop, get that capacitor analyzer, clip one lead of the caps and test them that way?
Of course by then I might as well begin replacing them all. - keantoken
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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I would just replace all electrolytic, paper and wax caps on principle.
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mike - www.keepingsundayspecial.org |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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KT,
Replace those OEM oil caps. with Soviet surplus K40 PIO (paper in oil) stock. I suspect you have the same issue of electrically leaking parts, just like the contemporary Sansui tubed units exhibit. Mica and ceramic caps. tend to hold up, but ceramic caps. in the direct signal path is a "no no". BTW, have you tried contacting Pioneer? Perhaps they have documentation in the archives.
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Eli D. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Okay, I just found a good page. Problem with this sort of thing is, I can never find a page that tells me what the caps look like. I've never found a page on how to identify different caps, I'm just supposed to know somehow.
The obvious ones are marked "suzuki oil jcp-a" at 400WV. Can I assume all film, mica and ceramic types are dipped package and lima bean types? The shop I got it from recommended getting these caps: Bob's Antique Radios - Supplies Probably not like the soviet caps, but I have real budget issues. Maybe I could go more expensive if someone knows a good source? - keantoken
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dallas
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Get me a list of cap needs. You could also use my B&K mutual conductance
tester, but you would have to get to Dallas. Have a Sico tester that checks only for "emission". Basically wires all internal parts like a diode, and check that is works like a diode. Mostly to see if the cathode coating still emits? You can rig something like that fairly easy... |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Macedon NY
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Could it be SX-34B? All the tubular caps are bad - count on it!
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dallas
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Same as Allied Radio "Knight 333"?
Last edited by kenpeter; 13th August 2010 at 02:52 PM. |
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