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| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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Good morning,
Finally....I have finished my first build. I never thought I would get to this stage due to the nagging hum issues I was having. I want to thank everyone for their help and advice through out the build and troubleshooting process. ![]() The sound is great but a little compressed or stuffy. The bass response is good and the highs smooth. I guess I will experiment with some different tubes to see if I can tweak the sound a little more. Next project - ECC82 or C3G/C3M preamp. Cheers Brian |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Nice, can we see a schematic?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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Schematic attached
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Looks very nice ! Unlike those ugly cables sticking out the front
__________________
mod verb, transitive /mod/ to state that one is utterly clueless about the operation of device to be "modded" and into "fixing" things that are not broken; "My new amplifier sounds great so I want to mod it." |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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There is no volume control and it is fixed bias. The volume is controled through the pre amp I am using.
I dont really care for the inputs being up front either, but since this was my first amp, I wanted to keep the signal input as short as possible to minimize problems. Cheers Brian |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Brisbane QLD
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Quote:
Regarding the sound, you could try simply disconnecting the 47uF cathode caps on the 6V6's, or try much larger caps, like 470uF. I had a similar circuit in an amp recently and found that seperate cathode loads (the 1K/1000uF) on the input tube (6SL7) gave a cleaner sound, despite comments that the circuit as it is may have better inherent balance. Anyway, there's a couple of things you can try before going tube rolling, if you get the urge... Regarding "fixed bias", your amp is known as self-bias or auto-bias. The "fixed bias" amps have the output tube cathodes going to ground and a negative voltage is supplied to the grids of the output tubes, usually via trimpots to set the bias. Yep, the terminology seems all back to front. Ian. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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Thanks Ian for the tip. I will give that a try.
As far as the chassis. It is Corian. It is a solid surface countertop material. It works great and machines well. Also thanks for the clarification on the atuo-bias/fixed-bias termanology. Cheers Brian |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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Quote:
Do I need to try disconnecting one or the other, or do something different? Thanks for the advice Brian |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Brisbane QLD
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Sorry, I meant 100uF. You could try 470uF or 1000uF in that position also. You will find that different size caps can/will affect the sound.
See attached schem, picture is better than words. Not sure if you are going to want to undo some of that tidy circuitry though... |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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Making changes is no problem...
I have higher quality components (Takman and Mills resistors, Black Gates and Audiocaps) waiting to be used once I can get the sound to a point I am happy with. I know the components will make a difference also, but I know there is room for improvement before I get to that stage. Thanks B |
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