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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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I'm bringing a pair of neglected Dynaco MkIIIs back to life, and am considering changing to 6AR6WA/6098 output tubes. Is this a viable option?
I'm retaining all of the original iron, and installing Triode Electronics input boards. I'll also upgrade the PSU caps, and may consider switching to a stiffer choke. My incentive for changing the output tubes is primarily cost, with quality an additional factor. I have several matched quads of NOS Tung-Sol JAN 6098s. I don't think I can find a current production 6550 to equal the original Mullard/GEC pentodes, and the price of NOS 6550s is ridiculous. Is this a good avenue to travel? If not, are there Russian milsurp tubes which would be a better choice? Thanks in advance for your opinions and/or experiences. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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What about 6CA7?
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The devil is not so terrible as his mathematical model! Wavebourn: We Create Creativity! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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I thought about 6CA7s, but unfortunately, I only have three. Bird in the hand, and all that...
BTW, here's a link to the entry on another forum which got me thinking about the 6098 option: Tubes Asylum - 6AR6/Triode Input Board/MIT-RTX/max build - Chris Spafford, February 11, 2003 at 17:28:35 I don't know if the poster's obvious enthusiasm stayed so high over the long run, but he sounded pretty pleased with the initial results. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Brisvegas
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I don't see why not if you rewire the sockets and keep dissipation below say 18-19W /tube. From past experience the published 21W max dissipation really is max. George (Tubelab) would not be impressed at all.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Grand Rapids
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screen voltage max is 300Vs with 3.2Ws dissipation and with a plate dissipation of 19Ws, it's certainly a different beast than the 6550/KT88.
However, I have a friend who ran 6AR6s in his Mark IIIs - coincidentally, he used the Triode Electronics input board too. If I remember correctly, he ran them with the stock B+ voltage and dialed back the bias. The 6AR6s _were_ being heavily abused and would last six months before he would have to replace 'em. Since he had about 100 of the little buggers, he really didn't care! In a trade, I ended up with these Dynaco Mark IIIs and rebuilt them from the ground up. I ended up running SED 6550s and also played with the top cap EL38 (required a bias supply change). |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
The Bendix 6384 version is a different animal that can be cranked hard. It is unfortunately expensive and hard to find.
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Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Quote:
IMO, the best NOS option is employing TT21s and adapters.
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Eli D. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Eli, after reading more about the Gold Lion KT88 reissues, I'm going to follow your recommendation. Jim McShane has matched quads for $220, which is reasonable considering the tubes' reviews and Jim's reputation for standing behind his wares.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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No doubt about it, McShane is the man.
You don't need a matched quad. Each monoblock needs a well matched pair. Pairs are easier to cull out than quads, which saves some cash. The GNFB loop brings the amps into alignment.
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Eli D. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
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How about 6BG6GA's or the Russian 6P3S's? I have used the 6BG6GA's with adapters in Dynaco Stereo 70's. I have used the Russian tubes also and they sound great.
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