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Old 7th July 2010, 06:06 AM   #101
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Welcome to the wonderful world of chassis making. Personally I have good experiences with punches. I use a 28.3mm punch for octal sockets, works well for me. Maybe you have slightly different sockets. Why snip a hole first? I drill the 10mm pilot hole for the punch, and then I punch, works like a charm in 3mm aluminium. What material do you use? Stainless would be A LOT more muscle work than aluminium. Always use grease or cutting oil with the punches... Also lubricate the "shoulder" of the punch where the bolt turns against the barrel... Finally try to find the correct spanner.

HTH!
Kenneth
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Old 7th July 2010, 01:24 PM   #102
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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The centre bolt of the punches I have on loan are very large themselves, requiring a pretty big hole in the first place. Yep, lots of grease. It is steel and it take a fair bit of torque to cut through it. The finished holes are nice though, much better than what I would have produced with a file !

Life is always easier with the right tools, perhaps this is an opportunity to upgrade my old hand drill and to consider a 1/2" chuck. The trouble has been that no one project really justified the expense of new tools, but I guess you reach a point where you have to think ahead to future projects

I'll keep plugging ahead - next step is to get enough of the power supply built to find out what kind of B+ I can achieve with the parts I have.
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Old 7th July 2010, 02:06 PM   #103
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Of course it's your money, and they're not exactly cheap, but maybe you could consider buying your own punches (with smaller center bolts!) -- just two punches will equip you for octal & noval sockets, which is about >95% of all tubes out there. And they last a lifetime.

You're right, not many power cutting tools come close to punches w.r.t. the quality of the finish of the hole! Plus, it's much more satisfying to make big holes in metal without power tools

Might I also suggest to give 2 or 3mm aluminium a try just to get an idea -- you'll be surprised how much easier it goes compared to steel!

Kenneth
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Old 13th July 2010, 01:38 AM   #104
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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These punches are darn expensive. I only want to cut 3 holes and I don't know if I'll ever want to build another tube amp yet - I've never heard a tube amp still so this is the first chance.

Well, I invested in a new drill because I know that'll get plenty of use either way. But the punches I have borrowed simply aren't the right size for my tube sockets. I had to file the holes out to achieve the right size. I treated myself to a round file for the job. After some time this evening I've now got the 3 socket holes done. They ain't pretty but they are going to do the job. Next project I'm buying tube sockets to suit the punches I can borrow. Right now, I feel like telling my power transistors that all is forgiven....

DigiKey should be on my doorstep shortly with some extra bits - power resistors, fuses, power switch and some caps. I love it when the parcels arrive
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Old 13th July 2010, 08:27 AM   #105
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I use aluminum for all my chassis. You can cut and drill aluminum with tools for wood work. I use technical alchahol for lubricant and the tools handle themselves pretty well.
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Old 13th July 2010, 05:48 PM   #106
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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That's certainly worth consideration. My current chasis was a gift from a friend so I want to make good use of it.

A bit of alchohol would lubricate things better
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Old 13th July 2010, 11:54 PM   #107
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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I've now put a lot more holes in the chasis. My bits turned up from Digikey too. I've also made a nice Oak wood frame for the chasis.

Unfortunately, the cut side of the chasis (it was cut down from a larger one) doesn't have the support of a metal side and it bows slightly under the weight of the trafo's.

It looks like all this will have to be scrapped again.
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Old 14th July 2010, 12:05 AM   #108
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I don't need to drill holes.
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Old 14th July 2010, 01:32 AM   #109
Cassiel is offline Cassiel  Libya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigun View Post

Unfortunately, the cut side of the chasis (it was cut down from a larger one) doesn't have the support of a metal side and it bows slightly under the weight of the trafo's.

It looks like all this will have to be scrapped again.
This thread is making me nervous, so much trouble to build a simple amp. Your "big" problem has an easy solution, hint - chassis can use wood as a crutch. By Jove!, just make it sound. What's the use of spending so much time building the chassis if you don't know it's a keeper.
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Old 14th July 2010, 02:28 AM   #110
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Yes indeed. Too much futzing around, it won't do it all, I'm in danger of letting the side down !

I'll plug on and finish this chasis to a point that I can wire the thing up. The next time you hear from me I'll have a photo of the finished thing.

Will it be a keeper ? - well given the shortcomings I'm planning on this first build as being the 'practice run' based on the 6AS7. It'll end up life somewhere other than in my main system, perhaps on my desktop with nearfield monitors where I can feel the heat !

Stalker - great result last Sunday, my family was rooting for you

Wavebourn - I can't be building my amp out of cheese grater now !
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