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Old 11th May 2010, 02:21 PM   #11
johnr66 is offline johnr66  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toufu View Post
If I glue them together, how am I suppose to change the tubes?
You glue the sides together like a 5 sided box and have a removable piece that is fastened another way for access (screws and such). Screws look tacky for a complete acrylic box. Think of an acrylic display case in a museum. Beautiful seamless looking joinery.

Here is a tapped horn mockup I made out of acrylic with clear seamless joints. This would look terrible with screws all over.
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by johnr66; 11th May 2010 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 11th May 2010, 07:39 PM   #12
Matt BH is offline Matt BH  United Kingdom
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Nice
A friend of mine used to section Perkins engines for display. He used to use chloroform to bond the edges of the acrylic display cases. Is this the way you did it?

Cheers Matt.
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Old 11th May 2010, 09:56 PM   #13
johnr66 is offline johnr66  United States
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Originally Posted by Matt.B.H. View Post
Nice
A friend of mine used to section Perkins engines for display. He used to use chloroform to bond the edges of the acrylic display cases. Is this the way you did it?

Cheers Matt.
Close. I used Dichloromethane solvent cement.
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Old 11th May 2010, 10:40 PM   #14
Arnulf is offline Arnulf  Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt.B.H. View Post
Nice
A friend of mine used to section Perkins engines for display. He used to use chloroform to bond the edges of the acrylic display cases. Is this the way you did it?
I too use chloroform to glue plexiglas sheets together. I would like to point out another option as well (subject to avaliability): "nitro" based wood lacquer solvent. If it is still avaliable in your country, it will serve as excellent plexiglas glue.

In either case (chloroform or nitro solvent) make sure you have some plexiglas filings handy, dissolve them in your glue of choice (keep adding filings or shavings until you get somewhat sticky, very warm honey-like compound) and then smear this goo onto surfaces that are to be glued together. Press them firmly against each other so that you drive the air bubbles out.
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Old 12th May 2010, 12:57 AM   #15
johnr66 is offline johnr66  United States
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Originally Posted by Arnulf View Post
I too use chloroform to glue plexiglas sheets together. I would like to point out another option as well (subject to avaliability): "nitro" based wood lacquer solvent. If it is still avaliable in your country, it will serve as excellent plexiglas glue.

In either case (chloroform or nitro solvent) make sure you have some plexiglas filings handy, dissolve them in your glue of choice (keep adding filings or shavings until you get somewhat sticky, very warm honey-like compound) and then smear this goo onto surfaces that are to be glued together. Press them firmly against each other so that you drive the air bubbles out.
This method sounds interesting, but messy. Seems like you would have ooze-out when you press the pieces together. I wonder how well it works by using a bottle with needle applicator without thickening?
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Old 12th May 2010, 08:07 AM   #16
Arnulf is offline Arnulf  Europe
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Try it out with some scrap bits first to get a feeling of how much is enough. It doesn't take much as the "glue" slightly softens the material and bonds it together. I never had any problems with this method, it didn't take much practice either.

I never considered application via hollow needle because any material used as a glue evaporates eventually, leaving you with a lump of solid plexiglas which you woul have to soften again in order to reuse your applicator (and softening large blob is considerably more difficult than liquifying small shavings). Just smear it onto the surface you wish to glue together with a toothpick or a small spatula.
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Old 12th May 2010, 10:41 PM   #17
Matt BH is offline Matt BH  United Kingdom
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Thanks for the great info
Clive my mate had the luxury of large milling machines and polished the edges. They clamped the edge up nice and square with no gaps then just ran chloroform along with a small paint brush relying on cappillary action to draw it in.
Obviosly chloroform is rather hard to get but I do have access to loads of dichloromethane based thinners. I dont know the exact chemical make up but its nasty stuff I will get some and try it out.
Putting filings in to make up a glue or maybe even a thinner varnish is a great idea. Does it dry completley clear?
Thanks to the OP for starting this thread as I have been thinking about using an acrylic tube around some QQV06-40 to allow forced air and keep fingers off the anodes. The air should keep them cool but dont know about radiated IR.

Cheers Matt.
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Old 13th May 2010, 02:31 AM   #18
kuroguy is offline kuroguy  United States
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acrylic has a higher shade coefficient than clear glass. In other words it will let more light through it then glass. as a result it will stay cooler than glass used in the same position.
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Old 13th May 2010, 10:48 AM   #19
Arnulf is offline Arnulf  Europe
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Originally Posted by Matt.B.H. View Post
Putting filings in to make up a glue or maybe even a thinner varnish is a great idea. Does it dry completley clear?
Well, as a former politician woudl put it: that depends on your definition of "clear" If there is no dust trapped inside the glue or on the surface of sheets being joined together, it will be just as translucent as a sheet of plexiglas. These are usually not quite as clear as a clean glass even if cleaned thoroughlym I always have the feeling that there is some tiny dust clinging to it that cannot be washed away. If that meets your definition of clear then yeah, clear it is.

This basically softens both sheets that you are gluing together so don't overdo it with the thinner or you may end up with disfigured material. Try it out on some scrap bits first.

Oh and whatever kind of vessel you decide to prepare your glue in, make sure your significant other will not ask to have it back - once thinner evaporates the leftovers will solidify. You best bet would be something disposable but unless you work in a laboratory you'll probably have hard time getting scrap glassware that was to be junked anyway.
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