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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Hi,
I would like to start DIY pre amp tube. There are some topologies, CCS, conventional R and SRPP. Which one will be better, have less hums/noise for pre-amp? About filament, some said it is better to straight connect to AC of transformator. If I do like this, will it be potential to hum or not, since it does not relate to signal, and I found classical tube amp doesn't rectify the filament supply. But another people even use so-regulated for this, e.g. not just rectifier, but also big cap and big regulator e.g. LT1083 or MOSFET. I don't see any benefit of this. About hum, since this is pre amp (based on SS experience), hum is more likely to exists in higher gain/low signal circuit like pre amp. Then, how to avoid/minimize hum in tube pre amp? Usually in SS, I use regulated PS e.g. using 78XX/79XX IC, but since this is a tube, I can not do like that. Will using tube rectifier reduce hum possibility than dioda (even fast rectifier like SF, UF or MUR)? What value of capacitor minimum in PSU, does simple bridge + C enough? I plan to use regular (EL) transformer, may be not toroid. Thanks, Ervin L |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Vancouver
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It is fun being a DIYer that you can experiment various configuration of the amplifier such as CCS, conventional R, choke plate load, LED or battery cathode biasing etc etc.
Using tube rectifier for the filament is just not practical at all. People say run the filament with CCS would sound good as AC supply but without hum. Take your soldering iron and start building it. Johnny |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mar del Plata, a BIG seasonal getaway city, can see the Ocean from our residence.
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You can run a 317 series regulator for HT, just float it! Just watch the 37 Volt input/output limitations. Study some three pin HT regulator schematics....it will all fall into place when you understand how the circuit works.
__________________________________________________ ___Rick...... |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sydney
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Or use a pass device, maida regulator Maida regulator
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#5 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
A regulated supply can be used, and some prefer the sound of specific regulators. However, regulated B+ is not necessary for a quiet preamp. Again, a matter of taste. But, a quiet supply is always good, so you will need decent filtering either way. More if it's not followed by a regulator. Download PSUD from the Duncan Amps site. It's free and works very well for designing passive supplies. Sheldon |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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I would start with a simple common cathode gain stage with a well filtered B+ (maybe CLCRC) and AC heaters. Then you can add fancy stuff later and see for yourself. Use a low or medium mu triode like 6SN7, 6N1P or 12AU7 depending on what you have access to. Give it a relatively high B+ voltage and plate load for the particular tube in question. Lay out the heaters carefully with twisted leads and elevate the heaters above ground by say 40V or so to reduce hum. If you have to drive a SS power amp or long cables consider using a cathode follower stage on the output.
You can then experiment with the cathode by trying unbypassed cathode bias, bypassed cathode bias, LED bias and so on. Then play with the plate trying choke loads and various active loads. Who knows you might find nirvana in a preamp with more active devices than the Space Shuttle... but you may prefer the simpler approach. I say do the easy stuff first. If your PS is well filtered and you have a decent load on the plate of the gain stage you may find no need for things like CCSs, mu followers etc. As for tube or SS rectifiers your choice. Tube is more expensive but they are simple.
__________________
mike - www.keepingsundayspecial.org |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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A "gotcha" with common cathode line stages is trouble with low impedance loads, like those some SS power amps present. Few tubes, in common cathode, can directly drive the IHF 10 KOhm "standard" load. A happy exception to that state of affairs is the 12B4. Plenty of 12B4 designs are available. I've uploaded my version.
The power supply shown uses a pseudo choke I/P filter. Choke I/P filters are inherently well regulated, unlike the cap. I/P filters you may be familiar with. It seems you are in a "240" V. power mains zone. Both a Triad N-68X, for B+, and a Triad VPL24-400, for heater power, have dual primaries. Therefore, that "iron" works in both "120" and "240" V. zones and it's reasonably priced.
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Eli D. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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First tell me what preamp you need:
Gain input impedance output impedance max voltage swing An then we can discuss what might work well. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Quote:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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I am sorry but I do not know why my last post was inserted in the message of Ervinl!
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