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Old 1st April 2010, 04:01 AM   #1
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Default Why am I blowing fuses when connecting to next component?

As you might have guessed ,I'm new to tube circuits. I purchased a few pre built tube preamp boards for use as a gain stage in resistor i/v on some TDA1541 cd players I have. The boards are straight forward , with very easy hook-up. 120vac , 6.3vac , input , output. Bridge diodes are included onboard for each power supply. I'm currnetly using Line voltage 120vac and a 6.3vac transformer for heaters. The circuits works fine. In my shop , I use a 2 channel reciever for testing. Everything worked fine, sounded very good , and I was quite proud of myself. HOWEVER , I brought the player into my house and connected to my main system. This includes a good quality tube pre amp , that I have owned for 15yrs without issue. When I connected it to my tube pre , upon turning it 'on' , the player blow a fuse. i figured it was a glitch, so I replaced the fuse with a slow blow type. This also blew. Took it back to the shop , connected it to my reciever and NO problems, players fine. Back to the house , fuse blows. Anyone have insight? Pics below
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Old 1st April 2010, 04:15 AM   #2
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The problem is simple. You must isolate the 120 V input with a transformer.
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Old 1st April 2010, 04:18 AM   #3
rknize is online now rknize  United States
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Indeed. I have a large 100W amp in my basement that works this way. I have never plugged it in for this reason. Get a transformer!
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Old 1st April 2010, 04:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob91343 View Post
The problem is simple. You must isolate the 120 V input with a transformer.
I see. How does the direct connection cause a problem when connected to some components and not others? It does not 'appear' to be a problem with SS pre amps , only on the 2 TUBE pre amps I have tried.
So I need a 120v-120v trans?

Thanks
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Old 1st April 2010, 04:41 AM   #5
rknize is online now rknize  United States
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You are tying the circuit to your home's mains. Depending which way you wired the hot and the neutral to the circuit, one of them becomes the common in the amp. If you then plug that into a component that ties its signal common to earth ground, you have just shorted that leg of your home's wiring to earth ground. In your case, it sounds like you have the hot side appearing as the common. You have been lucky that you have not been shocked.

It's possible that either the outlet in your shop or your home has the hot and neutral reversed, which is perhaps why you didn't receive a shock while in the shop.
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Old 1st April 2010, 04:54 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by rknize View Post
You are tying the circuit to your home's mains. Depending which way you wired the hot and the neutral to the circuit, one of them becomes the common in the amp. If you then plug that into a component that ties its signal common to earth ground, you have just shorted that leg of your home's wiring to earth ground. In your case, it sounds like you have the hot side appearing as the common. You have been lucky that you have not been shocked.

It's possible that either the outlet in your shop or your home has the hot and neutral reversed, which is perhaps why you didn't receive a shock while in the shop.
OK. It makes sense now. I did measure for voltage on the rca's ground side and it was 0v(line hot or neutral to output ground). Not that I'm trying to explain away the issue , but if the tube circuit is isolated from the chassis and the rca's are also , does this make any difference?
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Old 1st April 2010, 05:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homemade View Post
I see. How does the direct connection cause a problem when connected to some components and not others? It does not 'appear' to be a problem with SS pre amps , only on the 2 TUBE pre amps I have tried.
So I need a 120v-120v trans?

Thanks
When you use a bridge rectifier directly from the wall (you're looking to die - SOON), in essence your output negative ('ground') is connected to both sides of the AC line. It isn't really, just every other half cycle.

DO NOT SCREW AROUND WITH DIRECT CONNECTED SUPPLIES !!! (until you know exactly WHAT you're doing)

If you're not having trouble connecting to some units it because THOSE transformers are covering your butt. It you touch your 'ground' and a true earth ground, you will get a nasty potentially lethal shock.

If I seem harsh, it's to keep you around. Always always ALWAYS use a transformer for your projects and experiments.

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Old 1st April 2010, 05:09 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by stratus46 View Post
When you use a bridge rectifier directly from the wall (you're looking to die - SOON), in essence your output negative ('ground') is connected to both sides of the AC line. It isn't really, just every other half cycle.

DO NOT SCREW AROUND WITH DIRECT CONNECTED SUPPLIES !!! (until you know exactly WHAT you're doing)

If you're not having trouble connecting to some units it because THOSE transformers are covering your butt. It you touch your 'ground' and a true earth ground, you will get a nasty potentially lethal shock.

If I seem harsh, it's to keep you around. Always always ALWAYS use a transformer for your projects and experiments.

I do appreciate this. I'm very glad I looked to this forum

Last edited by homemade; 1st April 2010 at 05:12 AM. Reason: add text
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Old 1st April 2010, 05:12 AM   #9
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I would add at least two or three more ALWAYS's.

In the old days they had electronic stuff that wasn't isolated. They solved it by putting the gear into plastic cabinets, insulating knobs, and kept the chassis covered. If there was need for an external connection, they isolated it with a capacitor but there were lots of hum problems.

I had a cute one tube radio as a kid. It almost killed me a number of times.
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Old 1st April 2010, 12:23 PM   #10
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It appears I was mislead by the seller , but I suppose I should have known better. What usually makes sense, should be obvious. Please see pic below.


Can anyone suggest a good transformer for this circuit? Maybe a link?

Thank you all for saving my butt.

Paul
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