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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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looking for an entry level tube amp kit or design for stereo, 20-25 watts would be great.
Would it be better to do separate pre+ pwr amp? Thx, Rob |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Rob,
You can extrapolate the "El Cheapo" design I've uploaded onto 7591 O/P tubes. 7591 "finals" operating in ultra-linear (UL) mode will yield an honest 30 WPC. Check the 7591 data sheet out. FWIW, I'd build with triode/UL mode switches. Many recordings will do just fine with the 15 or so WPC triode mode yields. Triode mode is "sweeter". Power supply requirements for the 7591 are a bit tougher meet than those needed for 'AQ5s. The folks on this "board" will help you pull things together. An important part of the "El Cheapo" concept is that an inexperienced builder need own no more instrumentation than a multi-meter in order to successfully complete the project. Decent hand tools and respectable soldering equipment are an obvious necessity.
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Eli D. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hillsborough, NC/McLean, VA
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TriodeElectronics Dynaco ST-70 Tube Amp Kit
That comes to mind...or maybe a pair of the OddWatt monos. Quote:
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Jim J. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Eli .. neat. How is the sound?
Rob |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Reports from the field indicate that we achieved our objective. The cheapy guitar amp trafos shown in the graphic yield an OK amp. Moving up in quality to Dynaclone Z565 "iron" yields a good amp. The topology is valid and O/P trafo quality seems to be the limiting factor. You can find the lengthy saga of "El Cheapo" here.
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Eli D. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minnesota
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Eli, is there a schematic that shows expected voltages at test points? I have been reading through the 67 pages over at audiophiletalk.com but still have a few to look at. ;-)
-Ray |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Quote:
The key to the situation is to get a 200 to 220 V. 12AT7 section plate to cathode differential. By itself, a Triad N-77U doesn't quite get there. So, the currently recommended set of power "iron" (all from Allied Electronics) is a Triad N-77U as primary B+, a Triad VPS24-1800 as B+ boost and "12" V. heater power, an Allied 6K27VF as B- and 'T7 heater power, and a Triad C-24X as B+ filter. The decoupling network drops less than 2 V. 150 V. get dropped in each of the 50 KOhm 'T7 load resistors. Therefore, a B+ rail voltage of 355 to 365 V. is "ideal". Somewhat "taller" is OK, but caution indicates that the 'AQ5 bias resistor value be increased to 390 Ω.
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Eli D. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minnesota
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Thanks. I was looking at trying this out with a bench supply on a prototype board (ala Tubelab). I was looking for a low cost amp to build for the shop. I have a bunch of NOS 6AQ5's, 6AL5's and some 12AT7's. Seems like a good match ;-)
-Ray M. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Hmmm .. my latest thinking is to go for a more modest amp. This will be my 1st tube project. My goal is an amp for my bedroom system ... Energy RC-minis and a sub. I had a Shanling MC-30 driving them and that sounded nice. The MC-30 is only 3w/ch output so I think my output requirements are modest.
I'm thinking that 10w/ch stereo output, input is audio in from my Apple iMAC ... streaming iTunes and online radio. Should I now maybe consider other designs? |
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