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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Niederösterreich
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SO... I have this pre-amp from NAD from the 80's. It puts out 16vrms from its HI RCA, 8vrms from norm. I believe. Way plenty for an EL84, so why not drive the tube directly from the output?. A couple coupling caps, some chassis punches, binding posts, blah blah blah , slap on a power transformer and some outputs... and VOILA! an Integrated EL84. Like A monkey on the back of the NAD. Have I just smoked too much or is this a second chance for an 80's preamp that will otherwise play center-stage in a dark closet under some photo albums? Never seen a mutant pre with a tube output stage growing out of the top of the chassis. Any comments? Has anyone tried this? Have I been awake too long?
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#2 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Jan 2010
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You need a real tube pre/driver. NAD is Not A Driver.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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It'll work fine: the drive requirements of an EL84 are trivial. If you search, you'll find EL84 spud amp designs out there.
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Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. Enzo Ferrari |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Niederösterreich
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Do you mean the NAD doesnt have enough &@$$% (current) to drive the grid of an EL84 in single ended UL, or Pen-toad? Or not enough voltage gain? It's easy enough to throw any sorts of tube front-end on the EL-84, but my question is WHY (or why is it a bad idea) can I not drive the grid of the EL84 directly from the NAD output?
too slow.. Last edited by mctavish; 19th January 2010 at 01:54 AM. Reason: slow typing again... Nuts... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Maui, Hawai'i, USA
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The NAD has plenty of current drive for an EL84, even in triode, but it's real marginal on voltage. Yes, it will make it, technically, but you may be way out at the nonlinear ends of the swing to get full modulation - and with a SE EL84, even in pentode, you are going to need full modulation.
Aloha, Poinz AudioTropic |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Quote:
I'll go further.
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Eli D. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Niederösterreich
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Now THATS what i'm talkin about! I want to go easy on the weight factor on the top of this chassis though as the chassis for my tube projects are usually a bit stouter. I was thinking S.E. because i have a collection of 5K:8OHM transformers from Japanese R2R's. Cool, Thank for the confidence boost, I ill post pics of the spawn...
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Quote:
How are you going to handle the mandatory NFB in pentode mode? A triode wired EL84 is good for about 2 W. Do you have the appropriate high efficiency speakers? SE with the "iron" you have is fine, but use triode wired 7591As, which are as easy to drive as EL84s. NFB will not be needed. Put the PSU in an outboard box and connect with an umbilical.
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Eli D. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Niederösterreich
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The sky is the limit.. I am a huge Fostex fan, FE206, FF225k, and two sets each of RM760 and RM780 co-axial studio monitors. I have a quad of Baldwin 7591's but I have a Soft spot for the 6BQ5's. I'm not against GNFB if used properly. My goal here is 4-10 watts of love just because.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Not from a single triode connected 6BQ5...
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www.kta-hifi.net |
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