GLY513 in PS of Simple SE / PP and OTL

[moonbird]

I just bought 6 GLY513 600uf caps from a guy on EBAY that I want to try as output caps in a 6as7 OTL amp I am slowly buying parts for. As that would only need 2 -- I got 4 extras. Could I use one in the PSs of the Simple SE and or Simple PP (planning to build both)? What are the tradeoffs? Is it worth it? Could I use an SS rectifier only with them, would there be some clever way to make use of it with a tube rec, or was I just plain crazy to buy these things at all (kinda scary ). Give it to me straight doc. thx.

[tubelab.com]

was I just crazy to buy these things at all (kinda scary ) thx.

I don't know, I bought 6 of them too! I got them with the power supply of a really big push pull amp in mind, but I have wired one into several of my experiments. I often connect one across my old Fluke 407D power supply to supress its inherent instability when overloaded (like I would do that!)

Could I use one in the PSs of the Simple SE and or Simple PP

I have connected them into both amps. 600uF is a big grunt for a rectifier tube to charge up. I seem to have found an indestructable 5AR4 (I haven't killed it in 4 years of testing), but you may have issues with some of the current production tubes.

If using one in a simple SE, I would reduce the first capacitor to a small value, something like 10 uF, use a fairly large choke (not the resistor), and install one or more inrush current limiters. I have several different flavors of inrush limiters on order, so I will have a repore on which ones, and where to connect them in the near future.

I have connected one into my 6CW5 version of the Simple P-P which uses solid state rectification. No modifications were needed. I haven't tried it on the EL84 version yet.

[Ty_Bower]

I'll vote for the "crazy" option. I'm glad he ships these with shorting jumpers across the terminals.

[tubelab.com]

I'm glad he ships these with shorting jumpers across the terminals.

And how would you know this, unless you were slightly crazy too.

OK, since we are all a bit warped, I will urge you to resist the temptation to spark one of these out with a small screwdriver, if you value your screwdriver. It makes a bigger bang than a 2400 uF 450 V electrolytic.

[nic6paul]

I was looking to replace caps c10 c12 c20 c22 these in hopes of creating a electrolyticless Simple SE. No real particular reason for doing this I just wanted to make mine a bit more unique. I cut the bolts off the top of the GLY513's with a hacksaw then polished the tops. This amplifier is F---'n big. The other four capacitors are motor runs that replace the on board electrolytics. They are rated at 370vac which I believe my B+ of 450vdc should be with in limits. I still haven't finished it so if anyone thinks I am ridiculous speak now or forever hold your peace.

[tubelab.com]

I still haven't finished it so if anyone thinks I am ridiculous speak now or forever hold your peace.

I don't think it is ridiculous, I want to know how it sounds.

[moonbird]

Originally Posted by tubelab.com

If using one in a simple SE, I would reduce the first capacitor to a small value, something like 10 uF, use a fairly large choke (not the resistor), and install one or more inrush current limiters. I have several different flavors of inrush limiters on order, so I will have a repore on which ones, and where to connect them in the near future.

Wow -- more than I could ask for Tubelab -- thanks loads. I got some CL-90s as your page suggests - also found some cheap CL-190s. I have several NOS 5U4 rects (also found some 5Z4 and 5V4s too) -- should I try them? All my 5ar4s are reissues -- NOS are too $!$!$! .

Originally Posted by tubelab.com

I have connected one into my 6CW5 version of the Simple P-P which uses solid state rectification. No modifications were needed. I haven't tried it on the EL84 version yet.

VERRRRRY COOL - I also have some 6CW5s which I swap out on my AX84 guitar amp. Nice to know they will work too (ultimately woulda figgered it out I guess but will take some of the fear/fun out of turning it on ). I really like the sound of PP 6CZ5/6DT5/6CM6 types too (but mo deffernt than 6CW5s fer sure - need paralleled sockets fer dem) -- gee maybe half-n-half (did I mention I'm crazy )

Oh yeah -- one more thing - I doan do the screwdriver thing - probably should do it once I guess just to say I did (got started on this stuff too old I guess.) Anywho - my cap drainer uses a cement 30ohm 10 watter. Should I get a higher wattage resistor for these beast capacitors?? thx.

[moonbird]

Originally Posted by nic6paul

The other four capacitors are motor runs that replace the on board electrolytics. They are rated at 370vac which I believe my B+ of 450vdc should be with in limits.

Can I ask your source for these other 4 other motor runs (2x22uf and 2x50 or60uf I presume)? All I can find are oblong ones that doan look as good as these round ones.

Just so I understand -- you are downgrading from 4 1500ufs to 600uf right?

Wow -- go for it! I am also very interested to hear about the sound. I have not bought the lytics yet for this dude (I hate them so I always put it off till last).

[rknize]

The rounds ones are harder to find, but they are there. I bought a bunch of different ones over the past couple of years...just gotta keep looking.

Somehow I ended up with 9 of those GLY513s.

[tubelab.com]

I also have some 6CW5s which I swap out on my AX84 guitar amp

Do NOT put 6CW5's in an amp designed for an EL84. They will have a short unhappy life, and the resulting fireworks may blow up something else.

The Simple P-P is designed so that you can build a 6CW5 version, or an EL84 - 6BQ5 version. They are not the same, and different transformers are required. A 6CW5 runs on a much lower voltage than an EL84 and draws a lot more current. So much current that a 5AR4 or any other popular rectifier tube, can not run a stereo amp. Solid state rectifiers are required.

my cap drainer uses a cement 30ohm 10 watter. Should I get a higher wattage resistor for these beast capacitors?? thx.

A 30 ohm resistor will draw about 15 amps when connected across 450 volts. That is 5000+ watts for a brief instant. Ordinarilly the cap would discharge so quickly that the 450 volts is gone before the resistor gets hot. These guys may change that. Your resistor might explode. I have seen the white ceramic and cement ones explode. I have a 500 ohm 20 watt resistor, and it gets hot when I touch it to one of these caps, but it does safely discharge it. It is a big old black glass coated resistor. It still sees a 500 watt overload for about 1/2 a second. That might still kill a cheap Chinese resistor.