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Old 31st December 2009, 03:10 AM   #11
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I believe it's been spelled both ways, Stu. I couldn't decide, and picked one.

In woodworking applications, I hated the stuff.

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Old 31st December 2009, 04:07 PM   #12
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I have sucessfully used Weldwood Plastic Resin mixed to a paste with alcohol for faster drying. Use of a hair blow-dryer makes it faster still.
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Old 16th August 2013, 01:07 PM   #13
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Default Repairing Octal Bases

I have two 6V6 tubes, a 1951 RCA and a 1959 RCA, that I successfully repaired using aquarium sealer. I use a small flat-tip screwdriver to force the silicone into the gap between base and envelope. I then clamped the tube together and let it sit. After a day, I took a razor blade and trimmed off the excess silicone.

These tubes tested great and I didn't want to toss them. The 1959 was so loose that when I had it in the tester it would die if I slightly twisted it. I marked the position where I had connection and reglued it in that position.

To my way of thinking, the silicone isolates the base from the envelope, possibly reducing vibrations from the chassis that might cause microphonics.
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Old 19th August 2013, 05:31 PM   #14
roline is offline roline  United States
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I've used the JB weld epoxy, push into the joint and wipe clean prior to standing upright with book on top to weigh it down in place. I also used it for loose top plate connectors.
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Old 17th May 2014, 04:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzythecat View Post
I use a small flat-tip screwdriver to force the silicone into the gap between base and envelope.
FYI - You never want to use silicone in anything electronic.
Because it migrates ends up in switchs, outlets, connectors, etc.
and starts screwing them up and you'll have all sorts of unidentified
problems down the road.

This bit of wisdom was handed down to me by the good folks at Lucent Technologies/Bell Labs/Western Electric from the old Dallas Work's
plant. A former world leader in power supply and design amoung others.

I picked up a lot of interesting knowledge from those folks.
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Old 17th May 2014, 01:34 PM   #16
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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I think he was probably referring to RTV, hopefully an electronic grade silicone adhesive. I've used this for +30yrs with no problems mostly to secure electrolytics and film caps to an underlying substrate. (chassis or insulator)
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Old 17th May 2014, 02:00 PM   #17
TheGimp is offline TheGimp  United States
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I've used cyanoacrylate on several tubes with success.

I've also disassembled and reassembled 6L6s that were loose. (remove solder and carefully pick the leads loose first) I used epoxy on the 6L6s.
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Old 18th May 2014, 10:36 AM   #18
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dude, just change the socket and get over it.
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Old 18th May 2014, 01:04 PM   #19
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Dave think you missed something.. Socket is not the problem..
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