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Old 1st November 2009, 06:26 PM   #1
athos56 is offline athos56  United States
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Default First try at an Eagle Schematic/board

Here is my first attempt at an Eagle schematic and board. It is a 6SJ7 driver board with a jumper for pentode and triode. (now that I think of it I should add a pad for feedback). I used some the tube libraries that others (thanks George) kindly provided in the past. I was thinking about DIYing a bubble etch tank. Does anybody know where to find those blue tripod shaped trimmer pots in the Eagle libraries? How do they look?

Edit: Ok I just looked at those again and have to route those traces arould the tube pads better!!
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File Type: jpg 6SJ7.jpg (10.0 KB, 245 views)
File Type: jpg Board.jpg (25.6 KB, 241 views)

Last edited by athos56; 1st November 2009 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 1st November 2009, 06:57 PM   #2
athos56 is offline athos56  United States
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Default Ok fixed the shorted tube pads

How is this? Ok for a first homebrew board? (still need to add the feedback option)
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File Type: jpg Board2.jpg (29.7 KB, 229 views)
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Old 1st November 2009, 07:29 PM   #3
jleaman is offline jleaman  Belgium
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Not bad, what is it ? Can i help u ? Send me the egl files and i help

Jase
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Old 1st November 2009, 07:49 PM   #4
athos56 is offline athos56  United States
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Default Ok, more work

Quote:
Originally Posted by jleaman View Post
Not bad, what is it ? Can i help u ? Send me the egl files and i help

Jase
Its just a 6SJ7 pentode driver stage. I figured if I was going to go through the trouble of homebrewing a board I might as well add some flexability. This is nowhere near as cool as the D3a boards that dsavitsk had made but still fun

Here it is with feedback option, the ground pad becomes the feedback input... And the eagle files.
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File Type: jpg 6SJ7c.jpg (22.0 KB, 208 views)
File Type: jpg Board3.jpg (31.9 KB, 202 views)
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File Type: zip 6SJ7.zip (29.0 KB, 11 views)
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Old 1st November 2009, 08:42 PM   #5
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The Eagle tube libraries' octal sockets are not sized correctly. You can download properly sized parts from pete millett's site, or from tubelab's site.
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Old 1st November 2009, 09:36 PM   #6
athos56 is offline athos56  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsavitsk View Post
The Eagle tube libraries' octal sockets are not sized correctly. You can download properly sized parts from pete millett's site, or from tubelab's site.
thanks for the heads up. I got the ocal socked from a library named "Tubes" I downloaded from here but who knows where it came from so I'll check what got vs the known correct version.
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Old 2nd November 2009, 12:39 AM   #7
athos56 is offline athos56  United States
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Default Ok one last post

Ok so I added the feedback to the board. you can have a trimmer + resistor or just a resistor, all of which is bypassed by a cap. Now I'm sure I could optimise the footprint of the parts used, ie cap/resistor size and what not, I'll need some help/segestions. What do you guys think?

Athos
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File Type: jpg 6SJ7 Board-d.jpg (43.6 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg 6SJ7d.jpg (29.8 KB, 41 views)
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Old 3rd November 2009, 02:31 PM   #8
athos56 is offline athos56  United States
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Default One more

I altered the layout. I have one more in the wings where I added extra pads for plate to plate feed back and a feedback arrangement in a schematic I might try first. I've been playing with this program all week and have a 6SN7 phase splitter and the Dynaco self spliting low power PP amp crammed onto the 3X4 space Eagle allows you (is that the Freeware limit? or can you make that box in the board window bigger??)

So on to etching. I'm planning on going the Amonium Persulphate route with a bubble tank and a heater. For the board I was thinking of going the Laserjet + Iron transfer method. More Pictures of boards as I get bored (sorry ).
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Old 3rd November 2009, 04:29 PM   #9
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A few comments:

- You should add at least a grid stopper. And other resistors, particularly Rk, should probably be closer to the pins.

- Heater traces look a little thin -- you might try just putting the pad by the pins and running the wires directly there -- no need to use traces at all.

- the pads used for mounting holes are likely too small for screws

For a similar project to yours, take a look at ecp.cc
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Old 3rd November 2009, 04:45 PM   #10
athos56 is offline athos56  United States
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Default Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsavitsk View Post
A few comments:

- You should add at least a grid stopper. And other resistors, particularly Rk, should probably be closer to the pins.

- Heater traces look a little thin -- you might try just putting the pad by the pins and running the wires directly there -- no need to use traces at all.

- the pads used for mounting holes are likely too small for screws

For a similar project to yours, take a look at ecp.cc
All of those are easy fixes, thanks for the input. I agree about the heater traces, I want to keep all the tracks as thick as possible.

Has anybody used double sided boards with some sort of rivets for the through holes? I'm thinking about the soft (hopfully copper) rivets that you put through the holes and then hit with a special tool to curl the ends?
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