Russian oil caps ? - Page 4

Cuti932 · 18th July 2003, 10:01 AM

If you do not have a capacitance meter with leakage measurement then take notes for the B+ rail voltage before adding the HV oil caps (or any new caps). Make sure that all the leads are as short as possible. After their addition, turn the power on and observe that the B+ rail voltage is not sagged down, no strange sounds, and the chassis is quiet without any new vibrations. I have yet to found any big HV oil caps leaking. I do have a capacitance meter with leakage measurement.

The ASC metallized poplypropylene in oil caps sound detailed but lacking in bass weight and authority. The NOS oil caps with date code older than 1977 are definitely PIO and do sound more dynamic, alive, and more powerful bass. They are lacking in details compared to the ASC, that is the reason the Russian oil caps are needed. Similar to a 2 way or 3 way loudspeakers, a combination of caps are needed to satisfy the bass, mid and high of music electrical signals.

Bandersnatch · 18th July 2003, 11:49 AM

Put a big resistor in series with the voltage source. when voltage is constant there should be no voltage on the resistor. Don't go too high or the small line voltage variations( assuming a variac, HV transand bridge rectifier with small cap filter) will make things hard to see.
regards,
Douglas

Tomatito · 19th July 2003, 01:32 PM

Quote:

that is the reason the Russian oil caps are needed

The schematics didn't say: use russian caps here! , they were the only ones I could find in this value.
Still, thanks for the response

martin

Brett · 19th July 2003, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tomatito
The schematics didn't say: use russian caps here! , they were the only ones I could find in this value.

Providing you're not beyond the spec for a tube rectifier, why use such tiddler caps? An 8u Russian oil is going to be lacking in both bass weight and decent ripple performance unless you have some high value chokes or a good regulator.

Random though for the day: would Dan Quayle spell your moniker Tomatitoe?

Tomatito · 19th July 2003, 04:42 PM

Here's part of the PSU: the 8 u's are actually paralleled. I probably could use one single cap of double the value instead ?
I found a couple of CDE caps of the same value , however, they are horrendously expensive.

Dan Quayle ? I would write his name as "Kweel". I guess it depends on how good his spanish is.

Brett · 19th July 2003, 04:51 PM

I'd increase the capacitance after the choke by a lot, to 100u at least.

I'm not sure what the rectifier can deal with capacitance-wise, but I like to run at around 2/3 of that.

fdegrove · 19th July 2003, 11:54 PM

Hi,

Quote:

'm not sure what the rectifier can deal with capacitance-wise, but I like to run at around 2/3 of that.

Well, this marvelous mesh plate rectifier can take a maximum of 60µF right after it...

Minimal series resistance is 60 R.

It is without a doubt one of the best European rectifiers ever made, the best would be the AZ 50.

So much for my potatoes,

Tomatito · 20th July 2003, 12:48 AM

Am I right in thinking this is a RGN1064 ? I miss the horrible side contacts of the AZ1

fdegrove · 20th July 2003, 12:57 AM

Hi,

Quote:

Am I right in thinking this is a RGN1064 ? I miss the horrible side contacts of the AZ1

Yes, it is...I sold at least a few thousand of those to Siemens-Atea so they could measure their telcom inductors without burn-outs...

Mind you that was 1993...

Funny huh?

18th July 2003, 11:49 AM	#32
Bandersnatch diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ann Arbor, MI	Put a big resistor in series with the voltage source. when voltage is constant there should be no voltage on the resistor. Don't go too high or the small line voltage variations( assuming a variac, HV transand bridge rectifier with small cap filter) will make things hard to see. regards, Douglas __________________ the Tnuctipun will return

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18th July 2003, 10:01 AM	#31
Cuti932 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: California, USA	If you do not have a capacitance meter with leakage measurement then take notes for the B+ rail voltage before adding the HV oil caps (or any new caps). Make sure that all the leads are as short as possible. After their addition, turn the power on and observe that the B+ rail voltage is not sagged down, no strange sounds, and the chassis is quiet without any new vibrations. I have yet to found any big HV oil caps leaking. I do have a capacitance meter with leakage measurement. The ASC metallized poplypropylene in oil caps sound detailed but lacking in bass weight and authority. The NOS oil caps with date code older than 1977 are definitely PIO and do sound more dynamic, alive, and more powerful bass. They are lacking in details compared to the ASC, that is the reason the Russian oil caps are needed. Similar to a 2 way or 3 way loudspeakers, a combination of caps are needed to satisfy the bass, mid and high of music electrical signals.

19th July 2003, 04:51 PM	#36
Brett diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002	I'd increase the capacitance after the choke by a lot, to 100u at least. I'm not sure what the rectifier can deal with capacitance-wise, but I like to run at around 2/3 of that.

20th July 2003, 12:48 AM	#38
Tomatito diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Amsterdam	Am I right in thinking this is a RGN1064 ? I miss the horrible side contacts of the AZ1

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