Could try adding a MOS cap-multiplier to the B+
4.7uF [x1 or x2] MKT (cheap type is OK, as there is no current) and 1,5M resistor [and 12V zener]. Cheap FQPF3N80C is 800V isolated, and can easily do this [1 per channel]
FAIRCHILD SEMICONDUCTOR|FQPF3N80C|MOSFET, N, TO-220F | Farnell United Kingdom
4.7uF [x1 or x2] MKT (cheap type is OK, as there is no current) and 1,5M resistor [and 12V zener]. Cheap FQPF3N80C is 800V isolated, and can easily do this [1 per channel]
FAIRCHILD SEMICONDUCTOR|FQPF3N80C|MOSFET, N, TO-220F | Farnell United Kingdom
"cathode stripping" normally means the electrostatic ripping of cathode layer from the active layer [or DHT filament] in **Transmitter** tubes.
With 600V and lower operation, you don't really risk this happening.
But you do risk the effect described by van der Weyer - active-layer particles being drawn to the grid (where they stick). This is not related to cathode stripping (as applied above).
But over many power cycles, you may end up with more noise and distortion than an unused valve.
The grid, and cathode active layer are present in direct- and indirect- heated tubes, so I would assume the same precautions apply. And since DHTs are usually more expensive to replace, I think the precaution is worth the trouble.
Personally, I think it is (aesthetic) rough-handling to crash the HT on to a valve before it is warmed up, like using a big nailed-boot, or a stick to operate the power switch. DHTs are fragile, and should be treated GENTLY, in all ways.
On the other hand, one may choose to believe that nothing will happen - many here do. That's OK, It's your money, and your tubes. This is DIY!
With 600V and lower operation, you don't really risk this happening.
But you do risk the effect described by van der Weyer - active-layer particles being drawn to the grid (where they stick). This is not related to cathode stripping (as applied above).
But over many power cycles, you may end up with more noise and distortion than an unused valve.
The grid, and cathode active layer are present in direct- and indirect- heated tubes, so I would assume the same precautions apply. And since DHTs are usually more expensive to replace, I think the precaution is worth the trouble.
Personally, I think it is (aesthetic) rough-handling to crash the HT on to a valve before it is warmed up, like using a big nailed-boot, or a stick to operate the power switch. DHTs are fragile, and should be treated GENTLY, in all ways.
On the other hand, one may choose to believe that nothing will happen - many here do. That's OK, It's your money, and your tubes. This is DIY!
Yes - there is a significant difference, because it halves the capacitance which is your enemy for the treble. It also doubles the inductance which is useful for a 26. Two are much better sounding.
I wire the two chokes bottom to bottom with the wires coming out the same side. Then connect the right side wire of one to the right side wire of the other (when the normal way up, not upside down!) so you wire them out of phase.
Try getting another two - they're very cheap and surprisingly effective. I'd prefer a really nice anode choke from a good maker, but for now this gets me some good sounds.
Andy
Rod would say: use 2 different connectors
Thanks guys, what about the cable gauges?