• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

#26 pre amp

Thanks for the tip about alkaline batteries. I assume you mean disposible rather than rechargeable? Like the common Duracell types?

Kevin recommends one battery per channel.

andy

Yup. disposbles are better than rechargables I beleive. I use the Eveready Energizers in my pre and they are pretty stable and last long. It is almost an year for my pair of batteries.:)
 
Hi!

Thanks for the link, no doubt is very good kit, but it's also ultra expensive.

Well, 2 chokes per filament and a high quality power transformer and output transformer don't come cheap ;)

Even myself I only apply filament bias to my cost no object preamps. If budget is a concern I rather use regular cathode bias, instead of a solid state regulated filament supply. But tastes are differnt, this is just my opinion,

Best regards

Thomas
 
hi!

Can I ask if for 10y driver stage IT is good 400v/25ma or better lower Vak and up to 30ma ? (I know is not so simple;

It depends on the current capability of your driver stage. If you use Tango NC20. Run it at 15-20mA.

If you want to drive say a 845 which needs large grid swing, go to as high b+ as possible

Best regards

Thomas
 
Just finished a 26 pre. B+ is with LCLC to SSHV to an LL1667 25mA choke at 150V on anode. Cathode resistor is 1.8K bypassed by a 1000uF capacitor.
Thinking to move to battery bias soon.
Heating is with Rod' s regulators.
Also thinking to use a LL1660 wired 4.5:1 for line out. Should I use the 5mA or 10mA version? Right now I have about 6mA. Also would it be better or not to keep the anode chokes?
 
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