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#61 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
I would recommend trying battery bias as previously discussed using RC coupling in the grid circuit to inject the bias voltage - this would allow you to remove both the cathode bias resistor and the bypass capacitor. The parafeed cap can be connected to the cathode connection in any of the situations described above, however the cathode bypass cap is required for the reasons mentioned. Incidentally the cathode bias wants to set your operating point as well as your CCS, in this case you should allow the CCS to do it. If you do not want to use the battery bias mentioned something like 5 red leds in series in place of the cathode bias resistor & cap should make for an audible improvement. You can try connecting the parafeed cap between the leds and the filament. (Try both there and normal circuit ground - you may or may not prefer one over the other. Hope this all helps.
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"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan |
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#62 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: UAE
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Quote:
How long the tube will survive if I continue the same op points? At least for an hour daily, I am using this Pre nowadays. I don't mind of changing tubes every 2 years and having the same sound which I like. |
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#63 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Probably OK if you have a target life span of a couple of thousand hours or less.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan |
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#64 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Hi Kevin,
Just saw your post on Tubes to transistors : ) Could you share your thoughts or experience on using something like a FW B1 buffer placed directly at the coupling output cap? Given that the buffer is said to be quite neutral, would you think that the output transformer can be replaced? Thanks! |
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#65 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: UAE
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Quote:
Tried 150v/6ma and sound is pretty impressive. I think I can settle down with this as well. Bass response is slightly inferior but overall sound is perfectly fine. Thanks.
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#66 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
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"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan Last edited by kevinkr; 27th October 2009 at 04:51 AM. |
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#67 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: London
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Kevin refers to red LEDs, and I just tried those in place of a cathode resistor. Initially I was excited - very clear and dynamic. But there was an edge to the sound I couldn't live with, and I took them out and put in a wirewound cathode resistor. I found that fine - the smoothness returned and sound was only marginally less clear and dynamic.
I'm using cap out, and I didn't find any loss of treble without a bypass cap so I left it out, so with cap coupling that's a good option. With transformer OPT, just as Kevin says, you want to keep the Rp low. As for operatint point, I've been using a 150v glow tube and that's really too low - I need two to give 210v or 265v depending on the tubes. So with 3mA through the 26, the sound really is a bit thin. So will need to up the HT and the current as said in previuous posts. Looks like the 26 likes to be run hard - or at least quite hard! andy |
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#68 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: UAE
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Quote:
Actually I tried all these biasing methods and settle down with battery bias as Kevin suggested because it gave the most natural sound out of all. It reduced the hum considerably too. About the op points; if you playing Rock music, run those 26 hard as you can. It will bring the band to your house . Also it will give life to vocal jazz too. This is what I observed so far.
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#69 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan |
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#70 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: London
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Hi Kevin,
Seems like you have some nice amplification there! What speakers are you using, and how did you make that choice? Interested to know! andy |
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