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#161 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
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#162 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
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Its too bad we don't have a group project going on this 26 preamp. A ready made list of the proper procedures and parts to buy to make this. I personally cannot made this preamp and end up with something that is hum free.
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#163 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: London
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andy |
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#164 | |
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работник
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Then, to ride first class, use a feedthrough capacitor on the wall on the box to run the +ve through. Wire the box to the rectifier/cap neg using thick braid. |
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#165 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Melbourne
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Hi All,
Rod, you’re a wealth of knowledge, thank you once again for taking the time to design a heater supply for us. I’ve already ordered the parts for this psu. Yay! Quote:
Rod, is this circuit attached below correct? Does it need to be a metal box or is wood ok? Also regarding your final all fet heater regulator, how close does it have to be to the valve, is 17cm too far? Cheers, Rich
__________________
"A little learning is a dangerous thing" |
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#166 |
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работник
diyAudio Member
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Rich, the feedthrough cap looks like this:
Rapid Electronics - Electronic Components I think Farnell have these too. The two leads are B+ in and B+ OUT. The body and nut form the other terminal of the cap. Feedthough caps only make sense if you have a metal enclosure that you are trying to keep electromagnetic pollution contained within. The enclosure can be partly meshed, to allow ventilation of your trafo. Use braid to wire the cap -ve to the enclosure. you don't need the braid all up to the preamp itself. If you use a CCS and a gyrator (I think I'd use the FET gyrator now) and have enough headroom, the 7809 will not help much (unless you have mains that varies by 20% or something!). I find regulators of this kind terribly noisy, and that won't help! |
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#167 |
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работник
diyAudio Member
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170mm is not really too far between valve and regulator - provided the leads are twisted. But 30-50mm is better.
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#168 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Melbourne
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Hi Rod,
I have gone with a wooden chassis as my metal working skills are poor and I lack the tools. But will add some metal mesh for looks ![]() Is there a preferred value for this feed through cap? I suppose a ceramic cap will do. I’ve had good experience with those Russian PETP caps and there is a whole thread here on them. Is one limited with cap choice? Petp Capacitors-one Of The Best? Here is a pic of my high voltage psu. Rich out
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"A little learning is a dangerous thing" |
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#169 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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Your circuit diagram is wrong. You show a capacitor in series with the supply output. This will block DC. A feedthrough capacitor would be represented by a small cap from the output to the chassis, at the point where the supply passes through the chassis. A feed through capacitor is a wire that is surrounded by a layer (one or more) of dielectric that shunts RF from the wire to the chassis. DC current passes through the wire from one side of the chassis to the other.
Here's a description: What is Feed through Capacitor - Electronics Schematics Components Symbols Look at the symbol at the top of the page, and imagine the leads from either side of the symbol connected to the chassis, and the through wire in line with your power supply lead. Sheldon |
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#170 | |
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работник
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
FEeedthough caps are very effective at frequencies that leaded parts can't do much with |(>10MHz), but without a metal enclosure the HF/VHF/UHF may couple electromagnetically from the source of noise (eg rectifier recovery pulses) to the low level audio circuits. Running the power from the trafo/rec/caps to the preamp via shielded cable can help, when a metal enclosure is hard to do. |
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