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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I would like to know about phase splitters, which are quite linear, which not. I know there is the LTP, cathodyne type, etc..
The point is I want to build a guitar amp, and probably whithout cloning a popular one. Sure I'm gonna use sweep tubes as output. Thanks! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Auckland, NZ
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...and wars fought in less time that it would take to answer your VERY broad question. Moreover, it would just repeat information already around. I suggest google...
Valvewizard covers the various species of splitters, as does Aitken Amps. this is good reading too
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"Folks, you can't prove truthiness with information. You prove truthiness with more truthiness. In a process known as truthinessiness." - Stephen Colbert, The Colbert Report |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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For lead guitar if you want a classical overdrive you should go with what Fender did in last amps. IMHO.
One more option (it is one of my secrets) is to use a LTP - type class A output stage where the input tube is connected as triode, an opposite tube is connected as pentode with grounded grid. Very sweet sound, very musical overdrive. Try it. No need for an additional phase splitter.
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If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ardeche
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Quote:
A better way to use an OPT than inserting an air gap ! for sure ! For "true" PI, pentodes LTP are seldomly used in audio although they give vy good results and sometimes void the use of an additional stage gain. Use medium current/hi Gm types like 6BX6, 6EJ7 with starved g2 ... one of my secrets Yves. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
(I drive GU-50 with parallel feedback by 220K from plates):http://wavebourn.com/forum/download.php?id=119&f=7
__________________
If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ardeche
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Quote:
DC stabilized too Does R6 really need to be so hi ? DC shift ... I guess ? But eats 6dB ! After all, you seem to have plenty of gain to vaste . . .
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Newark, DE
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Quote:
There's a lot of helpful info here, in a format which I found easy to understand. http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard/index.html |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
![]() I would definitely shunt C6 if needed more OL gain.
__________________
If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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If you are short on gain, use a cathodyne with directly coupled voltage amp, this uses one tube and provides good drive for fairly sensitive output tubes (EL84 etc.)
If you are short on drive or max voltage swing, use a LTP/Schmidt with low-Rp triodes with high current, this uses one tube but provides less gain than option 1. This is better for big tubes like 6L6, KT88... you may still want additional grid drivers, cathode followers or mosfets after the PI if you have the space/power supply for these, they will help prevent blocking distortion. Also, balance in guitar amps is not always that important, since you probably want a mix of odd and even harmonics. Otherwise the sound will be a bit sterile for anything but Jazz/Classical guitar. |
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