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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Hello,
I just got a second turntable all up and running and my adcom preamp does not have a second phono input on it. I would like to play with building a tube phono pre. Are the PCB's avalible on ebay any good? I take it a power supply needs to be build for these. Are there any good kits/ schmetics for these? Are there any good Budget phono pre kits/PCB for? Here are a few ebay links i have found. http://cgi.ebay.com/Tube-Phono-ampli...DLVI%26ps%3D54 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...%3DI%26otn%3D2 http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIO-MC-MM-PHON...kparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1234|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A 1|294%3A50 Thanks for your input. FortyTwo MY stereo so far: DIY Turntable Oracle Alexandra Turntable AdCom 565 preamp EICO HF-30 amps (need a cap kit and new power cords) Infinity RSa speakers |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Flea Pay is more dangerous than Dodge City, KS was, before Wyatt Earp rode into town.
That 1st PCB you linked uses 12AU7s, which screams GUANO.For kits that offer relatively good value and proven performance look at the PCB based Hagerman Cornet and the point to point wired Bottlehead Seduction. If a scratch build is not too daunting, look here for a variation on RCA's "classic" design. This option might be lowest in cost, but "skull sweat" is required. If you go this route, I'll try to help. I suspect Jeff Yourison will help too.
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Eli D. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Thanks,
I have looked at the cornet and the seduction. The problem i have with the cornet is that for 400 dollars it gets you a schematic, design and drawings. I think point to point is probably better but more difficult to execute properly. I like the idea of the seduction, it is simple and elegant. I would like to try to scratch build. I do have some sockets and a small tube collection. I know i have a 12ax7 for sure. The reason i have not build a scratch built is lack of a known good schematic and parts list. I am going to go and look at the rca link now. FortyTwo |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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I built the one RJM posted on his website, and it sounds great.
http://phonoclone.com/diy_pho3.html vacuum rectification, 2 chokes, lots of film caps.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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Quote:
You can build mine for ~$200, and it seems to work pretty well. http://www.ecp.cc/phono.html
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http://www.ecpaudio.com |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Hi.
FWIW I built that rjm phono as well and am happy with it. It is only my third (and last so far) project. If I can do it anyone can. Mine does hum a bit however so read up on best practices for buss grounding and plan it carefully. Cheers. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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The RJM looks kinda up my alley. 2 tubes (plus one for the ps). faily simple design but easily upgradeable with changing out the componets. I also like that i have all values needed to vuild the curcit.
A few qestions. Would building the powersupply in a seperate sheilded box help reduce hum? I noticed that you have 2 sets of inputs on yours. IS there any special wiring involved or a special switch? I was reading about my adcom preamp and it was bragging about not leaving open contacts to reduce noise. Componet brands. What is good better best? Where is it most important to have best. Caps , resisters, rca jacks and grounding posts. I like to order from mouser so i will most likely put a project togather and share it. I have some non new old stock caps etc. would it be ok to use these in the ps. Thanks or your help |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Quote:
I have included a picture of the underside of my board which shows the ground buss. Call it a picture of what not to do. I connected the negative PS terminal to the centre of the u shaped buss with the intention of using one leg for each channel. When I wired it up it did not turn out that way. It seems to late to change it now. Anyone think this is where I went wrong? Rolf. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
I think your problem is what they call "lead dress". Basically neatness does count. Some techniques are to tightly twist the heater wires and route them very close to the chassis metal and well away from signal leads. Cross at close to 90 degrees. Minimize wire lenghts by using straight lines. Use sheilded wire when required, I don't see the point of the PCB. Why not use a turret board or something else that is more compact. being compact means less wire. You could also go with regulated DC heaters. Here is a random photo that shows some of this http://www.silvatone.bravepages.com/...it%20Board.JPG Notic in the above how the power supply and the input section are on oposite sides. Also see the input jack that is wired with coax directly to the tube's grid pin |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Hi Chris.
All very good points. maybe I will try a complete rebuild one day. I suspected the heater wiring myself at first. Since I used an outboard supply, it was a simple matter to run the heaters with a lantern battery to see if a pure dc would solve it. No difference. So even though it looks a mess that part isn't it. I have also tried using shielded cable on one input to see if it would cure one channel but it did not so I left the other alone. Also added a ground breaker, no dice. Then I upped the raw supply voltage and added RJM'S mosfet "regulator". Now ripple is almost undetectable on my scope. So I guess it does come down to a neat, compact layout and keeping the sensitive low level signals away from the high current parts. Oh well, live and learn. Can't afford to rebuild it now and it sounds quite good despite it's flaws. fourtytwo Have you decided on a design yet? Cheers. |
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