simple SE questions - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Tubes / Valves

Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 26th May 2009, 03:55 AM   #1
skipper is offline skipper  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Default simple SE questions

Hi All,

I am in the process of ordering parts for a simpe SE build. I am using Edcor CXSE25-8-5K OPT and I have a few questions.

1. With this OPT, can I add a Triode/UL switch? Should it just be a single pole and what amperage?

2. Is it recommended to add the Cathode feed back switch? Single pole and what amperage?

3. Adding a motor run cap, does this replace C2 or is it place in paralle with it? Are motor run cap electrolitic?

thanks,
skipper
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th May 2009, 03:30 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Minnesota
1. With this OPT, can I add a Triode/UL switch? Should it just be a single pole and what amperage?
yes you can, use a DPDT(on-on) switch. Just about any switch you find should work. I think mine are rated for 250volts and 6amps. I got it off of mouser. You could also check with apexjr.com I think they have some in which should save you a couple of bucks.

2. Is it recommended to add the Cathode feed back switch? Single pole and what amperage?
I would add it also, use a DPDT(on-on) switch. Just about any switch you find should work. I think mine are rated for 250volts and 6amps. I got it off of mouser.

3. Adding a motor run cap, does this replace C2 or is it place in paralle with it? Are motor run cap electrolitic?
It doesn't replace it. Motor run capacitors I believe are mainly if not all Polypropylene Film in oil. I got mine off of ebay.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th May 2009, 04:45 AM   #3
skipper is offline skipper  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Thanks, this was very helpful!
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th May 2009, 05:12 AM   #4
rknize is online now rknize  United States
diyAudio Member
 
rknize's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chicagoland
Send a message via AIM to rknize Send a message via Yahoo to rknize
Paul answered your Q's, but just to add:

1-2) As he said, pretty much any DPDT switch will work. The switches won't see more than 100 milliamps or so. The UL/Triode switch does deal with a lot of voltage, though...more than any "normal" switch is rated for. We are all probably using 250VAC switches, but most switches can handle much higher voltages as long as the current is sufficiently derated (which it is in our case). The only reason I bring it up is because I recommend that you get a switch whose body can be grounded to the chassis. If for whatever reason the switch body insulation breaks down under the high voltage, the worse that is likely to happen is a blown fuse. Getting zapped by 400V is much worse. Any metal toggle switch should do the job just fine.

3) George has a pair of terminals for the motor run cap. You still put the on-board 'lytic in there, regardless.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th May 2009, 04:48 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
porkchop61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mansfield, Connecticut
I have a Radio Shack 2 pole 6 position rotary switch for switching between UL/Triode/Pentode on my dual mono KT88 SE build.
This one:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062536
Just don't switch modes with power on
__________________
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th May 2009, 04:57 PM   #6
n_maher is offline n_maher  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Seacoast, NH
Quote:
Originally posted by rknize
3) George has a pair of terminals for the motor run cap. You still put the on-board 'lytic in there, regardless.

What makes you say that? Mine's been running fine for months without a single electrolyic installed at either C1 or C2.

Click the image to open in full size.

And George looked at the pictures and thought it looked great.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th May 2009, 06:05 PM   #7
rknize is online now rknize  United States
diyAudio Member
 
rknize's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chicagoland
Send a message via AIM to rknize Send a message via Yahoo to rknize
LOL...I'm not implying that you *can't* use all foil caps in the PSU! The design of the board is such that the intent is to use the on-board lytics using the supplied parts list. He provides extra terminals that allows a simple way to bypass that cap with a film one. You are certainly free to do whatever you please!
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2010, 04:59 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
P.R. Audio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Calgary, A.B.
I'm just wondering if any of you have used a DC supply for the 6.3v filaments on the Simple SE?
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2010, 04:48 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Ty_Bower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Newark, DE
Quote:
Originally Posted by rknize View Post
The design of the board is such that the intent is to use the on-board lytics using the supplied parts list. He provides extra terminals that allows a simple way to bypass that cap with a film one.
Neat idea. I always assumed the "auxiliary cap" connection was to add a big (80uF to 120uF) motor run cap to the power supply. I never considered using it to add a small film cap, bypassing C2 (the 120uF electrolytic cap installed on the board). Has anyone tried using it this way? What were the results? I've got some extra Orange Drop 630V rated caps. They're small, maybe 0.01 uF? I wonder if adding one would be useful...
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2010, 06:05 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
kavermei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lokeren, Belgium
Send a message via MSN to kavermei
From a point of view of current paths, I suspect it would be best to bi-wire the off-board capacitor (i.e. one pair of wires coming from the rectifier/choke, and another pair going to the load. For the same reason, putting the best quality (lowest ESR) cap in the position closest to the load.

Though at valve impedances, it may not matter that much.
__________________
Never send a human to do a machine's job. --Agent Smith
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Simple Simple SE questions nodiak Tubelab 57 2nd February 2010 11:02 PM
Simple questions. Help Please JustinSanders15 Multi-Way 2 12th May 2007 02:48 AM
simple pre questions graeme uk Solid State 0 20th May 2006 12:36 PM
Which DIY DAC simple questions??? jvsb Digital Source 0 3rd November 2003 03:21 PM
Some simple (for most, not me though) x-over questions Jimmy154 Multi-Way 0 29th December 2002 06:19 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:06 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2