Tubelab SE socket raise

Evenharmonics · 25th May 2009, 04:45 AM

I've seen various methods and materials used here to raise tube sockets for Tubelab SE amp and I thought I should share my latest and possibly the easiest way to raise the input tube sockets. No cutting, no drilling.

Here are what's needed besides 9 pin PC mount socket with a whole in the middle. 9 pin socket saver (cheap on ebay), 1 1/4 inch long #6 screw, nut and washer.

Unscrew the existing one from the socket saver, slide it into socket, then put new screw and tighten it (not too hard or you may crack the ceramic socket).

Then you can solder it to the circuit board. You can use one socket saver or two for additional height. Note, there may be a problem with impedance if the raised distance gets too long.

Here's a finished view. This one uses 2 socket savers.

I may post one for raising rectifier and output tube sockets later this week. Those do require drilling the circuit board though.

boywonder · 25th May 2009, 02:23 PM

Brilliant! Get those 5842's standing tall!

Of course I've already soldered my 9 pin sockets to the PCB. I can see hours of fun using needle-nose pliers to try to get the nut started without unsoldering the socket.

Evenharmonics · 25th May 2009, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by boywonder
Of course I've already soldered my 9 pin sockets to the PCB. I can see hours of fun using needle-nose pliers to try to get the nut started without unsoldering the socket.

Try desoldering iron . I did and it's a piece of cake.

rknize · 25th May 2009, 03:31 PM

LOL...this is exactly what I am doing on my Tubelab SE. In fact, the "socket savers" will be flush-mounted to the top plate while the rectifier will be recessed. The output tubes are going to be more complicated as I am not using the ones on the PCB....

George has issues with high-frequency oscillation and recommends raising the grid stopper and using a carbon-comp resistor there. I have done both, but I am wondering if the extra distance from the stopper may bring back the gremlin. I took one of those socket savers apart and it seems like there is plenty of room to put the grid stopper right in there.

Evenharmonics · 25th May 2009, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rknize
George has issues with high-frequency oscillation and recommends raising the grid stopper and using a carbon-comp resistor there. I have done both, but I am wondering if the extra distance from the stopper may bring back the gremlin. I took one of those socket savers apart and it seems like there is plenty of room to put the grid stopper right in there.

You mean R31 and R32? Yeah, I already replaced them per Tubelab instruction and I haven't noticed oscillation even with the raised tube sockets. I'm using 2 socket savers for each input tube.

Ty_Bower · 25th May 2009, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by boywonder
Of course I've already soldered my 9 pin sockets to the PCB. I can see hours of fun using needle-nose pliers to try to get the nut started without unsoldering the socket.

Can you drill a hole right through the PCB, and put the nut on the underside of the board?

Evenharmonics · 25th May 2009, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ty_Bower
Can you drill a hole right through the PCB, and put the nut on the underside of the board?

You can for V-2 (right channel) but not for V-3 (left channel) due to pin #3 connection running through the middle.

boywonder · 25th May 2009, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ty_Bower

Can you drill a hole right through the PCB, and put the nut on the underside of the board?

I suppose I can, but the ME in me won't let me do it, since tightening the nut in that config would be unnecessarily loading the legs and their solder joints . I'll just unsolder and resolder if I need the extra height.

rknize · 25th May 2009, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Evenharmonics
You mean R31 and R32? Yeah, I already replaced them per Tubelab instruction and I haven't noticed oscillation even with the raised tube sockets. I'm using 2 socket savers for each input tube.

I think the oscillations were ultrasonic, but I don't remember exactly. I put the socket savers on when it was on the bread board. I didn't notice any issues, but I didn't put in on a scope either.

Evenharmonics · 25th May 2009, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rknize
I think the oscillations were ultrasonic, but I don't remember exactly.

It is ultrasonic but according to Tubelab, it's heard as buzz at the speakers. I did notice that before replacing R31 and R32.

25th May 2009, 04:45 AM	#1
Evenharmonics diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2007	Tubelab SE socket raise I've seen various methods and materials used here to raise tube sockets for Tubelab SE amp and I thought I should share my latest and possibly the easiest way to raise the input tube sockets. No cutting, no drilling. Here are what's needed besides 9 pin PC mount socket with a whole in the middle. 9 pin socket saver (cheap on ebay), 1 1/4 inch long #6 screw, nut and washer. Unscrew the existing one from the socket saver, slide it into socket, then put new screw and tighten it (not too hard or you may crack the ceramic socket). Then you can solder it to the circuit board. You can use one socket saver or two for additional height. Note, there may be a problem with impedance if the raised distance gets too long. Here's a finished view. This one uses 2 socket savers. I may post one for raising rectifier and output tube sockets later this week. Those do require drilling the circuit board though.

25th May 2009, 03:31 PM	#4
rknize All the best stuff comes from Chian diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Chicagoland	LOL...this is exactly what I am doing on my Tubelab SE. In fact, the "socket savers" will be flush-mounted to the top plate while the rectifier will be recessed. The output tubes are going to be more complicated as I am not using the ones on the PCB.... George has issues with high-frequency oscillation and recommends raising the grid stopper and using a carbon-comp resistor there. I have done both, but I am wondering if the extra distance from the stopper may bring back the gremlin. I took one of those socket savers apart and it seems like there is plenty of room to put the grid stopper right in there. __________________ Russ http://www.knizefamily.net/russ/cate...ics/tubeaudio/

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25th May 2009, 02:23 PM	#2
boywonder diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: So.Cal.	Brilliant! Get those 5842's standing tall! Of course I've already soldered my 9 pin sockets to the PCB. I can see hours of fun using needle-nose pliers to try to get the nut started without unsoldering the socket.